Build Your Own SLA/SLS

Is there a recommended hardware and firmware setup? What are people using successfully with CW V13? I several boards to choose from Arduino MICRO, UNO, MEGA 2560 and DUE. It would be good to use one these boards. I have read that GRBL might be a good choice. But has it been tested? Does it communicate with CW V13?

Thanks!

I personally have run CW13 on an Arduino 2650 running 'Sprinter' firmware with a few stepper motor controllers. That's really all I can personally vouch for. That being said, Several other people have used a variety of Arduinos and RAMPs-compatible boards with Sprinter, Marlin, Repetier, and Grbl. If something is NOT compatible that is a 'standard' FDM hardware, I'd like to hear about it and figure out why.

I have had CW controlling GRBL, with a board and led's, but the hard disk on my shop PC has died, just as I am
ready to have CW controlling the actual motors, so at present I am confident grbl will work with CW, but can not say
for the present with absolute confidence.

I sorted the problem with the PC, (bios lost settings) and can confirm CW controls grbl.
everything works as it should.

Hello johnrpm,
I am using an Arduino loaded with GRBL, connected to a generic stepper driver. It connects properly to GRBL controller and I am able to jog the Z-axis on my machine. However all my attempts to connect to CW have been unsuccessful. When I press the CW jog buttons the RX LED on my Arduino flashes once, but that's it, no response on the stepper motor.
Could you please specify the steps you followed to connect CW to your GRBL Arduino?
Thank you beforehand.

I got it!! Thanks!

I would recommend zapmakers grbl controller to get things fine tuned, motors running sweet, endstops, etc, ready for CW,

The hardware and firmware needed varies a bit since so many of us have unique machines. Some use only the Z axis and some have tilt, pumps, other...

That being said, the RepRap community has provided a pretty good selection of low cost controls and firmware. I also use Sprinter with an Arduino 2560/RAMPS 1.4 but it is overkill for this application. It is still a good option because it is low cost, flexible, and there is community support to a degree. The prices are so low on this setup these days that I am not sure why you would use anything else unless you needed more power. Most probably won't. My Z slide is surplus and weighs about 60 lbs. I have a 5:1 gearhead on a NEMA23 stepper and it runs just fine.

If you want to roll your own, you need a stepper motor controller or indexer that will support "G-code" input. I think that CW13 would support sending other command formats also. Can't see why not but haven't needed to try either. You will need a power supply that can provide the needed voltage and amperage. PC supplies are used a lot but there are a number of other options.

Most who dive into a DLP printer probably know all this and more but for those jumping in here are some basic topics for you to research;
1. Stepper motor - these motors make a single step or fraction of a revolution at a time. A special controller or drive is required. NEMA23 is a possible size for a DLP printer. NEMA17 is the next size down and might also be appropriate.
2. Lead screw - like threaded rod from the hardware store only more precise and much smoother operation. Threaded rod works, just not as well.
3. Stepper drive - The electronic portion that creates the approproriate motor output when given a step and direction signal. There are several other inputs for things like step size, etc...
4. Control software - High level software like CreationWorks that converts a model into slices and then presents them to the firmware on the stepper drive(s) and also controls the projector, pump, everything else.
5. Top down vs Bottom up printing - One projects on the glass vat bottom, lifting the build platform a little each time and the other projects directly on the top surface of the resin, and the build platform submerges a little each slice.
6. Backlash - when you command a move then reverse it, there is slop or backlash sometimes. Since DLP printers primarily move the Z axis, gravity does a nice job of eliminating it. If things are a little too tight or dirty or something, you might find variation in the layer thickness. Not much talk about it so probably not much to worry about.
7. Flexible coupling - the opposite of a ridged coupling. Duh. Typically used to couple the motor to the lead screw. They allow a small degree of misalignment. The lead screw should probably be mounted so that a bearing carries the load of the build platform/slide.
8. Slide - Anything from a drawer slide to a plate with some bushings and guide rods will fit. Most DLP printers are using surplus industrial grade slides. See ebay. The advantage of these slides is that they are typically pretty accurate and have little to no play in the bearings or lead screw. They also cost a bit more. That said, DLP printers have been build using printed parts and rod that turned out pretty well.

This should provide a starting point for someone new to this type of venture. Do some searching and read up. Most of this stuff is fairly simple and you should be able to figure it out if you are capable of building and operating a DLP printer. It is basic hobby motion control and the same principles apply to any CNC machine tool conversion, RepRap, laser cutter, and many other robotics projects.

i trying to use your Software but i can not put it on work

MY end switch is UP

#define Z_HOME_DIR 1 (NOT WORKing)

then i will put start gcode to go down 150.23mm and start working

Normally shoud work like this i notes that all raprap have this BUG and is hard to FIX it

help needed !!!