Build Your Own SLA/SLS

I just finished modding my Veiwsonic PJD7820HD projector for my Little RP.

As we all know, to speed up cure time with a projector you have to remove the color wheel, or remove the UV filter, or both. Since I didn't feel like disassembling this thing beyond removing its case and having to build blinds to protect from the UV emissions, I opted for the former.
The wheel has to be connected, otherwise the printer won't turn on. Rather than breaking the colored glass off the wheel, I decided to mount it elsewhere inside the projector. It just seemed rather dumb to break a $60+ part, and I would like to have the option of using this thing as a normal projector.

I simply made a new bracket out of a strip of metal (cut from scrap), removed the adjustable foot thing, drilled a hole into the bottom plastic, and bolted everything in.



I have yet to make a test print, but it turned on with no problem and projected a perfectly clear black and white image. No odd noises, no vibration, no nothing. Just the hum of the fans.

This should cut my print times to a third of what it was before.

Congrats! Were you able to get the cover back on the projector with the color wheel in its new position, or do you run with the cover off?

Yes, I was able to put the cover back on with no problem. I really wouldn't want to leave it off, that would be a hazard.

If it helps anyone, here is my own take on the idea. 3D printed bracket that doesn't require drilling/damaging the case. It's designed for a PJD7820HD. Simply remove the "screw" support, put in the 3D printed piece, use a small sheet metal screw to attach the bracket to the 3D printed screw, and attach the color wheel to the bracket. The case can still snap back together, and it has significantly decreased my cure times.

Parts are designed for an FDM printer, but I made them small enough to print on the Little RP. I'm not sure how well they would work printed in resin though.

Thanks a lot for the bracket. What units is it, inches? When I import it into my slicer (mm) it is really tiny.

Oops, didn't scale it. Scale it 1000% when you import it and it should be right.

That is brilliant. Makes me really consider getting a filament printer. Thank you for sharing this.

On a similar note, I've actually had to put the color wheel back. I'm working with FTD Deep Black, which is a very, VERY sensitive resin (they recommend .5 second exposure time). Evidently, the PJD7820HD is already a rather "hot" model, so using an intense printer made even more intense on this super sensitive resin is likely what's been causing problems.

I've been waiting on getting the new FlexVats before I try again, but I think I'm going to give things another go before then. I'll probably write about that on another thread.