Build Your Own SLA/SLS

Hi Kvirre,

always a pleasure to see your posts :)

I've also been looking into raspberry pi's and the support of 2560x1440 resolution.
according to the manufacturer they have an image ready and hopefully will be released next week.. can't wait to have a speek at the config.txt

it looks like 2560x1440 is not supported out of the box by raspberry pi.. so i wonder how they solved it..

would would you want to go with nanodlp? there is another one.. Photonic3D

cheers,
hp

Hi everyone,

here is my largest print yet with the lcd printer



and here a close-up foto

cheers,
hp

I think you are right about the resolution being supported.
i couldn't find 2048 x 1536 resolution in this page from Raspberry Pi


sooo that means.. I wait for the manufacturer or try something myself during the weekend

Cheers,
hp

Hi HP,

The printer arrived !!

A bit so-so put together but the hardware seems very solid indeed ! ..the plastic lid is orange for me not green ??

(And the lid came in pieces, badly made but hey...cheap)

What happens when you expose a layer less than 7sec ?

Have you found a good source for fep sheet ?

I intend to use the printer to print resin wax for direct to cast metal...

..so took a bet on this resin:

http://goo.gl/T3mKP6

Found a casting house in hatton garden / London that are willing to experiment. I'd be happy to share my findings !

[ quote="hp_"]Hi Odd,

7 seconds was my lowest, i might try 6.8 but i fear thats the lowest I can go with Industrial blend Fun-To-Do

With the printer 1 fep sheet is provided.
anything happening with the raspberry pi I will share

Cheers,

hp[/quote]

Sorry double post

Hi Odd,

I found a cheap fep supplier on aliexpress.. but i buy 60 dollars of fep on a roll 0.025mm, the lcd resin printer uses 0.1mm fep thickness
I am very interested in how they actually make the fep film tense. but i love the flex / pillow vat design

what i didn't like is that they use cross patter bolts in the vat instead of inbus..

sofar i haven't seen any banding issue on the z-axis.. i did see a shrink issue with my resin causing some warp

for the 7 seconds or below with fun-to-do resin, if you go below the resin will not cure enough.. and will give a failed print..
so there is a fine balence between to long and to short.. to long will give overcuring and gives inaccrucy in the build
to short cured resin is to soft and print object will fall appart on build plate..

good luck with your printing