Build Your Own SLA/SLS

I have no problem .... sry but the bleeding problems I got previously was substantially worse on other resins I tried.
FTD Deep Black is the best I tried in terms of bleeding.

But then again I don't do 50 micron xy with cures as short as you do.

I was having similar issues with DB. I've since switched to SW + black pigment to make 50% gray and the bleeds are no longer an issue. I'm guessing that adding more pigment to DB cold help but not sure how much. Good luck and please keep us posted!

from what i read somewhere, in SW the pigment settles way faster than in DB. I have prints that take up to 10 hours, so i'm afraid it could be an issue. Can you comment anything on that? Any issues so far?

Cheers^^

Hello,

Yeah so the difference between SW and DB is that SW has more pigment and does settles faster than DB. Now in terms of long print time, If you have a top down, it's definitely going to settle faster than using a bottom up printer, simply because bottom up tends to help stir up the resin more from it's movements and small amount of resin in the vat. I started with a top down but since converted it to bottom up.

Honestly though the longest I've gone is about 7 hours so I can't really say if 10+ hours will have settling issues or not. If you leave it in the vat and not use it, just over night I can see that the top layers is more transparent and the bottom is more opaque. I think overall, as long as you stir up the resin well before printing, and you dont put too much extra resin in the vat, the consistency should be good through the duration of the print.

Overall I'm happy withe SW and at $72.50 a bottle it's well worth the price I'd say.

thanks for the info. I have a bottom-up and I might eventually build some kind of stirring mechanism, because i want to focus on long builds.

I will surely try SW!

Hi Joseph, yeah it's too bad they dont sell pigment separately on their web site. If you buy SW you automatically get to choose a pigment color for no extra charge. To make gray I only used a little bit and still have a ton of black pigment for future usage. Hopefully they will update their website.

Hopefully your bleed issue will be gone soon!! Keep us posted!!

Hi Joseph,

Have you tried decreasing exposure time? I think the trick is to get just enough exposure to make sure the layers stick together and pulls off the vat. I'm in the same boat of trying to figure out the correct time...adding pigment will change the timing so you'll have to figure that out accordingly. Generally faster exposure time will give you less bleed and better details on your print.

Right now I'm experimenting with 70% DB and 30% SW...still messing with the exposure time...hopefully I can work it out tonight. I'll post some photos once I've manage to get the correct timing.

Be carefull with pigments It's better to add a little and then little more, than to much from the first time - you will not be able to "take it back" from resin Yes. FTD has very big light bleeding problems. But be carefull to mix different types of pigments - sometimes they could kind of "add" to each other's "strenght" and sometimes they could "multiply" it. I'm talking about when there is dye in resin and you add a pigment - it works in totally different way. I usually prefer use clear resin and pigment it to "my taste"
Yes, MakerJuice pigments is the way to go, but kind of expensive To completelly eliminate light bleed you need quite a lot of pigment. Bit expect curing time to be much bigger. Also resin could go into "narrower" slice possibility. I.e. not 50-200 as "stock" but something like 20-30 micrones with a lot of pigment. It will not cure deeper than 40-50 micron, no matter how long you exposure it.

Hey

Great to see someone on here using FTD deep black !

Could any of you possibly measure electrical conductivity / ohm on one of your cured prints ?

Deep black is supposed to use nano carbon and that may make it conductive.

Please let me know ?

I would be very grateful.

Many thanks !!!

//O.