Top down wins...
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Re: Top down wins...
I hollow large parts out before I print them mainly to reduce warpage, but helps on saving resin also.
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Re: Top down wins...
I boolean drain holes in using netfabb. Too hard to automate it would seem. Requires some thought in deciding where to place the holes.
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Re: Top down wins...
I also create drain holes but make them after the slice image files are done.
I will open up 10 or 12 slice images and just draw in drain holes in Photoshop. I'll just determine at what level to make the holes and in Photoshop, black out or "cut" through an outer shell to create a hole.
This way, you don't mess with the part's geometry.
Jon
I will open up 10 or 12 slice images and just draw in drain holes in Photoshop. I'll just determine at what level to make the holes and in Photoshop, black out or "cut" through an outer shell to create a hole.
This way, you don't mess with the part's geometry.
Jon
Re: Top down wins...
______________________
Etienne Renaud
Not quite 3D Printing, but somewhat similar:
Etienne Renaud
Not quite 3D Printing, but somewhat similar:
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Re: Top down wins...
I use 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum angle to support my build plate. I drilled 1/2" holes every 3/4" or so through both legs of the angle. I drew it up in cad to do some volume calculations and found the following... Over 8" of build height, the displacement of liquid by the arm lowering into the vat works out to just under .010", for the surface area I am working with. Factor this in with the material shrink and I'm calling it a wash. They pretty much cancel each other out. Since top-down requires zero lifting strength to separate the build from the vat, the flimsy little piece of aluminum is plenty strong for this purpose, and displaces almost nothing.