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Build Your Own SLA/SLS A forum dedicated to helping you build your own SLA/SLS-based 3d printer 2017-03-11T15:00:44-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/feed.php?f=19&t=5745 2017-03-11T15:00:44-04:00 2017-03-11T15:00:44-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16964#p16964 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Sat Mar 11, 2017 3:00 pm


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2017-03-07T20:06:56-04:00 2017-03-07T20:06:56-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16921#p16921 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> http://imgur.com/a/yoYyl and the underplate does have perimeter venting, it does not have the raised masked edge that your current V5 testing vats do however. The vat is running low tension on it as in my testing I have found the higher tension can contribute to uneven layer lines with the part shifting due to higher stresses of a shallower release angle, however at the cost of lower film life, risk of localized distortion etc.

Jon, if you add a base "add sole base" option and reprint does the part fail in the same place?

I think the issue may be that the FunToDo is harsher to FEP than some other resins, it definitely destroys PDMS and that the film may have lost some of it's non stick qualities from simple use. The small attachment base in comparison to the flared feature on the part simply can't hold on in the presence of increased stickiness of the film + larger cross section of the part. You are just seeing the issue earlier on in the life of the film as there was less margin to begin with, so not saying the film is toast, but that the part likely needs better adhesion to the build plate, either through perforation / roughening or more surface area on the bottom of the part (CW base support).

Statistics: Posted by goopyplastic — Tue Mar 07, 2017 8:06 pm


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2017-03-07T19:37:10-04:00 2017-03-07T19:37:10-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16920#p16920 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Tue Mar 07, 2017 7:37 pm


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2017-03-07T19:38:46-04:00 2017-03-07T19:13:22-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16919#p16919 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]>
flexvats work so well because when the FEP film is under tension it acts like a flat plate during the exposure. After the exposure as the build plate rises the fep film will bulge slightly upwards at points where the model is touching the film, when the fep film lifts it creates peeling edges at any point the part touches the film, these peeling edges allow the part being printed to separate from the fep easily (I have printed a part successfully using a flexvat that I forgot to lock down, the vat didn't even move).

The problem with fep film sitting on an acrylic window is that if the film is under any tension at all it will stick to the acrylic due to vacuum so when the build plate rises the fep does not bulge upwards so you do not get the peeling effect, you might even have a suction problem depending on the surface area of the layer being printed.

I am testing an acrylic window for a new vat design that looks like this to help with the vacuum problem:


HTL

Statistics: Posted by HTL — Tue Mar 07, 2017 7:13 pm


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2017-03-07T15:07:29-04:00 2017-03-07T15:07:29-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16915#p16915 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Tue Mar 07, 2017 3:07 pm


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2017-03-07T11:20:48-04:00 2017-03-07T11:20:48-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16914#p16914 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]>
One additional adjustment you might want to make is to increase the time between when the build plate drops and when the layer exposure begins, if this time is not long enough the resin will not have time to "squeeze out" from between the build plate and the fep film to the correct layer thickness (you will be exposing thick layers that do not or only weakly attach to the build plate). Since the tensioned FEP film is not a rigid plate if your layer exposure is made immediately after the build plate drops there will not be enough "squeeze out" time for the resin to settle onto a flat layer .

HTL

Statistics: Posted by HTL — Tue Mar 07, 2017 11:20 am


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2017-03-06T23:12:23-04:00 2017-03-06T23:12:23-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16910#p16910 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]>
Thanks again

Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:12 pm


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2017-03-06T22:46:03-04:00 2017-03-06T22:46:03-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16908#p16908 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> Statistics: Posted by C3DC — Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:46 pm


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2017-03-06T22:34:48-04:00 2017-03-06T22:34:48-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16907#p16907 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:34 pm


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2017-03-06T15:49:19-04:00 2017-03-06T15:49:19-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16897#p16897 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]>
Here are a few things that will help maximize build plate adhesion (Some have been mentioned already):

- Sand build plate with rough grit sandpaper

- Increase bottom exposure (Rule of thumb I use for flexvats is at least 10X normal exposure time)

- Use base plate in CW support menu (Far left icon)

- Slow your lift down (I personally use around 45-50 for Z bottom speed and 55-60 for Z lift speed)

- Reduce layer height. If you are printing 100 micron layers the part will pull harder on the flexvat. Try 75 micron and see if that helps

- If NONE of those give you success, the guaranteed fix is perforating your build plate.


As far as supports go this is what I would recommend for you:

1. Import part into CW

2. Move part up at least 3mm above build platform (This gives enough room for the part not to adhere to the base plate you will generate in step 4)

3. Auto-generate supports (Click ones you don't want and hit delete)

4. Hit the base plate button (Far left in support menu). It generates a plate wider than your part and also 1mm thick. I generally don't need the plate to be that thick, so I will click it and move it down .5mm (Its fine if it goes below build platform).

Statistics: Posted by C3DC — Mon Mar 06, 2017 3:49 pm


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2017-03-06T14:08:57-04:00 2017-03-06T14:08:57-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16895#p16895 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]>
Can someone please remind me how to edit supports in CW? I know there is a way to select a support, delete it, move the top, and move the bottom, but I cannot figure it out for the life of me. This time I will write it down. I need to delete some and to move the bases on others.

Thanks

Jon

Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:08 pm


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2017-03-06T12:43:37-04:00 2017-03-06T12:43:37-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16893#p16893 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> Generally you want the base layers to have more surface area than any horizontal section on the model, with some room to spare. I suspect that the parts are giving up the ghost on the build plate when the it starts printing the larger feature and the sticking forces from the film exceed that of the build plate. FEP also gets damaged / roughened over time so will stick more and more, parts that have printed fine might start to fail.

I would try adding a support base in creation workshop and re-printing as a troubleshooting step even if you goal is to not have that support element.For resins that have a harder time sticking, we can use perforated build plates, or sacrificial build plates of acrylic etc.

Statistics: Posted by goopyplastic — Mon Mar 06, 2017 12:43 pm


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2017-03-06T09:32:54-04:00 2017-03-06T09:32:54-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16890#p16890 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]>
When I push the build plate all the way down, I can see it clearly through the vat film, from below. I increased the exposure for the 1st 3 layers to 45 seconds. I still find a half-height part stuck to the vat at the end of the print. It seems that the part stays stuck to the build plate for about half of the time, and then the vat grabs the part from the build plate. I sanded the build plate recently (within the last 3-4 print attempts).

Could the film be TOO tight, so that if the surface area of a particular layer is larger than the surface area of the initial 3 layers, the vat film cannot release from the print slowly, across the print? I thought that one benefit of the vat was that the part would release almost like a tilting mechanism, but if the film is very tight, could this be failing?

What should I try next, please?

Jon

Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:32 am


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2017-03-04T14:41:54-04:00 2017-03-04T14:41:54-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16875#p16875 <![CDATA[Re: Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]> FEP based flexvat:

Make sure the FEP film is tensioned so that it is rigid.

The build plate should be adjusted so that at the build plates zero height the build plate is laying flat on the FEP film. Do not try to make a gap between the FEP film and the build plate, the build plate should be lightly touching the FEP film.

the first three or four exposures should be 30 to 60 SECONDS the rest of your exposures should be your normal exposure. The long exposures will not harm the FEP film as long as you do not have a thick layer of resin between the film and the build plate. Starting your build with the build plate touching the FEP film ensures that the "attachment layers are thin, thick layers may not cure deep enough to attach to the build plate or each other, thick layers also heat up too much and can damage the film).

If your model still does not stick to the build plate your resin may be over pigmented, resin pigment controls the thickness a layer exposure can cure (the higher the pigment concentration the thinner the possible layer thickness even with long exposures), exposure controls the hardness of the cure.

HTL

Statistics: Posted by HTL — Sat Mar 04, 2017 2:41 pm


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2017-03-04T10:07:20-04:00 2017-03-04T10:07:20-04:00 https://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5745&p=16873#p16873 <![CDATA[Parts not sticking to build plate with vat and FTD black]]>
Recently, most of the parts end up stuck to the bottom of the vat. They are mostly well formed, so this did not happen quickly: it happened toward the end of the print cycle (in this case, about 15 minutes, with 100 micron layers). I have sanded the build plate repeatedly, but that has not helped.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Jon

Statistics: Posted by jon_bondy — Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:07 am


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