The first print attempt on the Wanhao Duplicator 7 didn't form a base layer that attached, so I upped the cure times quite a bit.
The print came out much cleaner than the one off of my Acer-based printer, but at an extreme cost to cure times. Layer cure times were basically doubled, and still seemed to be undercured /fewer of the standing thin walls were present after printing.
I'm thinking for this Photocentric3D resin, less light output for longer may be a good direction for the Acer-based system. Hopefully I can run some tests and post an update this weekend.
Statistics: Posted by leitnin — Wed Nov 01, 2017 1:51 am
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I've got my diy printer based on an ACER H6500 with removed color wheel (not HD6510) up and running, and I'm getting some okay results, but not great yet.
It seems like I'm overcuring in some areas and undercuring in others. Wondering if anybody has any thoughts?
Here are some photos of the Kudo Titan calibration object, at 100um layer height. It's quite the small test, but I've seen some much cleaner prints from the Kudo community.
Here's the object in question
https://kudo3dzone-qvtvw6b193qlqida8iy5 ... t-grey.jpg
Resin is Photocentric3D UV hard Grey. ~75um resolution. Printing with a tensioned flex-vat without support, although the tension isn't that high, that doesnt seem to be an issue.
~75um resolution
15 second layers
Lift 4mm at 50mm/min
Lower at 150 mm/min (first layers at 50 mm/min)
Smallest holes closing up (overexposed?)
But many pillars not surviving (underexposed)
In general, the results just aren't as crisp as I'd expect.
Projector is focused on build plate before print. Visually, it seems like there is a bit of a glow in the resin around the image, maybe causing the edges to be soft. But at the same time, undercuring small features?
Any thoughts appreciated. I'll have a wanhao duplicator 7 here tomorrow for comparison.
Statistics: Posted by leitnin — Thu Oct 26, 2017 9:58 am
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