Sub $1000 build, including projector
Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:34 pm
Ongoing 3d printer build:
https://plus.google.com/photos/10955795 ... biF3cbuswE
Shooting for <$1000 including projector.
Frame is being built from actobatics parts. They do use inch dimensions, but they go together really nice and square, and they provide all sorts of goodies. I will need some straighter threaded rod for the z, what I have right now is slightly bent.
Just ordered parts for the frame to hold the resin tank.
My flex-vat resin tank is a super simple desing. Its a 4" pvc female threaded insert and a 4" rubber cap. I cut off the top of the cap, then adjust it so that it JUST barely wants to fit over the film + pvc ficture. I then press down and work it down. This stretches and tensions the film. Then you simply tighten the hose clamp. When done, it sounds like a little dumb. And of course, since its a threaded insert, you can buy a 4" pvc screw cap, and your resin container now has a lid. Be sure to lightly sand the bottom and remove any flashing from the injection molding process as this will tear the film. I've confirmed the tank is water tight.
They also make 6" parts, which are more expensive, so I used the 4" to test the idea, and I think it will work.
To mount the tank in the printer, the frame will be a square using the 3/8" threaded inserts for the actobatic channels. Then I will use 3/8" inch set-bolts ( think long set screws ) to hold the tank. By twiddling the screws, I can adjust and ensure the tank is level.
My plan for the projector is a cheap LCOS projector from AAXA. I should be able to remove the color leds and add in my own. I am hoping to use 1 white for the red channel, and 2 405nm for the g and b channels. then when I send a red image, I will get a nice white calibration pattern, and when I send a cyan image ( G+B ) I will have nice fast curing resin image.
z stepper control is still being worked on.
https://plus.google.com/photos/10955795 ... biF3cbuswE
Shooting for <$1000 including projector.
Frame is being built from actobatics parts. They do use inch dimensions, but they go together really nice and square, and they provide all sorts of goodies. I will need some straighter threaded rod for the z, what I have right now is slightly bent.
Just ordered parts for the frame to hold the resin tank.
My flex-vat resin tank is a super simple desing. Its a 4" pvc female threaded insert and a 4" rubber cap. I cut off the top of the cap, then adjust it so that it JUST barely wants to fit over the film + pvc ficture. I then press down and work it down. This stretches and tensions the film. Then you simply tighten the hose clamp. When done, it sounds like a little dumb. And of course, since its a threaded insert, you can buy a 4" pvc screw cap, and your resin container now has a lid. Be sure to lightly sand the bottom and remove any flashing from the injection molding process as this will tear the film. I've confirmed the tank is water tight.
They also make 6" parts, which are more expensive, so I used the 4" to test the idea, and I think it will work.
To mount the tank in the printer, the frame will be a square using the 3/8" threaded inserts for the actobatic channels. Then I will use 3/8" inch set-bolts ( think long set screws ) to hold the tank. By twiddling the screws, I can adjust and ensure the tank is level.
My plan for the projector is a cheap LCOS projector from AAXA. I should be able to remove the color leds and add in my own. I am hoping to use 1 white for the red channel, and 2 405nm for the g and b channels. then when I send a red image, I will get a nice white calibration pattern, and when I send a cyan image ( G+B ) I will have nice fast curing resin image.
z stepper control is still being worked on.