Build Your Own SLA/SLS

"Retraction speed" is used within the PronterFace program and works in both ways.
(It's used like: "g1 z2 f50")
My guess: the lift speed is the most important. (But I'm not able to test this.)

Even better would be a ramp-up, actually in both directions, I'm not sure if this is possible with CW?

I'm explaining how to use pronterface/projectlayer.

Pronterface handles the USB-connection. Within pronterface, there is a program called 'project layer'.
That's the one which is projecting an image to a second screen, by dragging the window there. Then this program also send NC-code to you hardware and updating a new picture after that. The trouble, is making a SVG file first, so that's all handled in one package within CW.
Right now I like the simplicity of pronterface/projectlayer, but on long term...

Got some questions from Jeff by mail, maybe better to post it here instead:

Nice work on the DIY 3d printer! I found your blog really informative and helpful. Thanks for sharing the build.

Anyway, I saw that you have changed to a pillowed flex-vat design utilizing an off-the-shelf plastic container. I have a few questions about the setup:

1) What material is the container made of? (i.e. PP / PS / PETE etc) Should I be picky about the plastic material reacting with the resin?
The transparent part of the container seems to be "PPRA". I have never seen this material before. Any way, the resin is not (yet) reacting with the container.

2) The container looks foggy. Wouldn't it degrade the resolution of the projected image? Also the UV transparency?
Well, the beamer is not shining through the container. There is has a hole in both the container & lid. So it's only the FEP foil between the lid & container.

3) What is the purpose of the pillow? Can't you just fix the container directly to the wooded frame？
I guess, the pillow is called, the way the FEP is temporary able to be changed like a pillow.
The container is fixed directly to the wood, so there is not real pillow..

4) How does a flexible tank with so much play in it (especially with the pillow) could maintain a totally flat and uniform surface for printing layers as thin as 25 microns? Am I missing something here?
Well, there is no pillow in-between. But still you have a point. The FEP foil could stretch a little, and so it could buckle (?) under litres of resin.
So how to solve this: 1) don't use to much resin on top. 2) try to stretch the foil, so it will remain more flat. 3) Maybe this is less useful for a very large build area.

5) Is tilting required for this setup?
No. This is one of the biggest benefits using a 'pillow approach'. When releasing, the foil will bend of the model by the edge of the printed part. This way it will act/form like a pillow shape.

6) How does it perform compared to PDMS? In terms of sticking force and longevity.
Please have a look in the posts before.

Hope everything is clear.

Hoi Koos,

i got the exact same email from the guy..

could he be a spammer or something?

cheers,
hp

hi, anyone try hydrophobic (water repelling) & oleophobic (oil repelling) sprays in Vat film ?