Build Your Own SLA/SLS

Heat Resistance of PMP from that link:

"The non stickiness polymethylpentene film can be used in a high temperature range of 200°C. Since the melting point of TPX is approximately 230°C (446°F), the film can be used in any process even at 200°C (392°F) adequately."

Should work.

Finally able to print something
I'm still using the PDMS coating on the glass, which was flooded for some weeks with resin.

Nice example of FDM (left) versus DLP, both objects 25mm tall:


And of course the first Eiffel Tower:

Hi Edge_

Very cool prints.. congrats on your progress

Thanks hp, yeah finally some progress...

Some updates about the build:
Beside a shutter mechanism, on of the best updates is an aligning build platform system. I more or less copied the system from Finhead and it works great. The change of getting detached print is very small. I also improved the tilting system. Since most small prints, don't require tilting at all, the vat supporting system could now do: active tilting, passive tilting or no tilting at all.

Shutter:


Build platform aligning system:


Tilting system:

Great work here EdgE!

Really like your posts and watching things develop!

Hi Koos,

that looks really great!
and some really nice prints

are you also pre-tensioning the fep somehow?

cheers,
hp

@AndersonTa: Tnxs, you are welcome.

@HP, no I don't use your clever pre-tension trick yet.
I want to understand how long it will last without...

Well, I tried adhesive FEP already in 2013:


Here I created one PolyStyreen resin container, with 3 different sections:
* No coating
* Adhesive FEP foil
* PDMS

So the results I found so far, working with this 'adhesive FEP':
* It works better then no coating (on a PolyStyreen floor).
* It's more durable then PDMS (because of the fogging issue of PDMS).
* Transparency is worse, in comparison with the PDMS layer or without anything.
* It's still very easy to damage when having a wrong build.
(flat part, cured on this FEP, trying to get this off with a knife, will very easily scratch the FEP)
* Do to the fact, it's "adhesive", your intention is to attach this foil to something (glass/plastic/..)
So when releasing the part from the floor, you still have this 'stupid' strong layer below.
This will cause the high tensile force, you need to release the part (and brake it).
So actually you want to stick this FEP to something more elastic (an other transparent foil ).
But when you want something elastic, why not using FEP without this adhesiveness?

So from my point of view, it doesn't make sense to use 'adhesive FEP' at all.
Most important is still the building speed.
So everything which makes the vat floor less transparent (like adhesive FEP, which you can see in the link above), will make your printer slower.

I'm trying to make a full list of FEP foil suppliers here: .
(So if there are more suppliers, let me know.)