5.5 inch (2560x1440p LCD) with UV LED array for under $600. :Proniks Sla 3d Printer,

[russiangems]

Folks I'm just about done with the rebuilding of the YHD-101 Waiting for the new display to arrive early next week which is the last thing to install.

Improvements.

1. Lead screw and motor installed.
2. Repaired X, Y movement in Z axis feed.
3. Installed Fresnel lens.
4. Repaired damaged resin holder.
5. Replaced shorted out Ramp board.
6. Replacing damaged LCD display which was broken at traces and on bottom of panel leaking fluid.

Over a thousand dollars invested in this machine, so Hopefully it will work properly after new LCD panel installed.


I will upload results if printer works.

[Elnur]

tell a minimum layer thickness XY and Z

[Rogueatog]

Hey guys! Very impressed with this thread. I've been in the process of sourcing and building my own DLP printer since I discovered you can build them yourself. From what I read an LCD printer wouldn't work due to the lack of UV transmission through the LCD panels. I was halfway through sourcing supplies (and was DLP projector shopping), when I ended up here. Currently I am deciding between continuing my build using LCD tech, and just buying the Proniks printer (and possibly upgrading it or making my own version later). I think I have the gist of this machine's design principles, but please let me know if I am off on anything (especially if it is glaring or very important):

1) Firstly, there is the frame, print head, Z-axis screw/motion assembly. Lots of design choices here, just hold it all together and have smooth Z-axis motion (ball-screw and high-microstepping preferred).

2) Secondly, there is the control electronics/software and power supply. Seems to me most people have the least trouble with a stand alone Raspberry pi, and NanoDLP. I also like the ability to add a camera to this setup. Power supply should not be a big deal due to relatively low power requirements.

3) Third, there is the LCD system. Looks like you would need a LCD screen without a backlight that can be driven by HDMI (through a LCD driver, of course).

4) Fourth, there is the LED system. This would seem to be best served by either a high-power 30-50w UV LED combined with a fresnel lens, or an array of smaller LEDs spread out under the screen. You would also need a LED driver and cooler. The Proniks uses a 405nm UV LED, is this the right one? Or could you use a 395nm? I figure you don't want to go too far down.

5) Fifth, the resin. I have looked into some of the resins discussed here and can't find any mention of "daylight" resin. Maybe I'm missing it, but is that to mean you are all using normal UV curing resin, such as Makerjuice? (According to the tech sheet, Makerjuice G+ has a UV absorption of around 0.8 at 405, and while this is half of its absorption at 395nm, it looks to be saying it would still get the job done.

[russiangems]

[mandrea]

You guys are doing a great job,very interesting developments about LEDs implementation
I'm following the street of building a panel on which Apply parallel adhesive strips, 3528 395nm violet SMD 600 led flex strip light, dc12v, spaced a few centimeters below the LCD screen, no need to change LED drivers, also I believe it does not heat up,
Apart from these fantastic experiments with LEDs, in my opinion, the printer needs a serious improvement of the Z slide (Ball screw), elimination of undulations etc.
some attractive proposition?

[Rogueatog]

Thanks for the reply! I checked out Fun to do, and I like their explanation of Acrylic vs Polystyrene bases for resins. I also checked out Makerjuice, and they also use Acrylic (don't mean to single them out specifically, other than I already bought some G+ so it WILL be part of my test setup, lol). I also have a ballscrew z-axis assembly on the way, so hopefully that will prevent undulation issues when I decide to build my own. I am still tempted to just buy one of the Proniks, under the assumption that I would learn a lot just having it physically in my hands, and running tests. I was doing some additonal research last night, and I did end up with one question. It would seem like LCD printers are divided between daylight resin 460-500nm and Proniks-style 400-410nm designs. The more I try to look into the the 400-410nm designs, the more I see people using greyscale LCD displays, which from my understanding is a tech mainly used in medical displays (and is produced without a color layer, which then allows a higher range of spectrum through), and commanding of a higher price, due to lower demand. After searching around I found this 5.5" 2560x1440 panel for $22:

And this 5.5" 2560x1440 panel for $85 from the Proniks machine supplier:

Seeing as the screens SEEM more or less identical, either the seller is price gouging, or the Proniks LCD is greyscale. With this in mind, is there anyone here who has one of these machines who has attempted to run a color image into the HDMI interface to confirm if it is color or greyscale?

[russiangems]

[LacoDeLoco]

[LacoDeLoco]

[Odd]

Hey laco

I found two suppliers in the UK that are substantially cheaper than the sheet sources I found on aliexpress...

...that said...

..never found anyone selling whole reels at aliexpress so hopefully someone here can tell us ?

Anyways I'll dig up quotes / links to the UK sources and let you guys know.

//O.