Resin calibration mode help

[Scatterplot]

I searched through the instruction manual, this forum, and Google, but didn't find anything- please forgive me if it's obvious!

Could someone please explain what exactly is supposed to print when I use the Calibrate button in the resin settings menu? It generated a bunch of slices and gcode, but when I printed it I couldn't really discern what it was trying to do. I got a mostly full section of several vertical and horizontal lines, and it looks like it tried to seal over the top of them when it was done. However, I didn't get too much information out of it since the whole thing looked pretty much the same to me.

Thanks for the help- I feel like I'm missing something obvious here

[PomeroyB]

I'm pretty sure it generates those lines at various exposure times, so you can test how long you should set your projector on for... But I'm not clear on the specifics.

Calling Pacmanfan! Pacmanfan, to the stage, please!

[PacManFan]

[JSmith172]

can anyone summarize what to look for?
i'm attempting to find the right time for using a mixture of 1:1 b9 red and cherry
any help would be great

[sloxd]

Hi there Could anyone explain what resin calibration does? I am doing on my own resin calibration so I will let you know if it turns out as smart idea...

[Nicksears]

Hope I can help! I just got to this point and I've been having trouble with curing since I bought the Form1/+ version of Matterhackers Makerjuice SF since (it has less PI). For anyone in the same boat, if you can get a hold of BAPO (Phenylbis(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide) and add 4-5 grams to a liter you'll get reasonable 10-15s cure times for 50um layers at 100um resolution on an Acer H6510BD (pretty standard).

To use the resin calibration you'll need to have a working profile since the process actually involves printing an object. Pick some profile that will expose long enough to definitely cure and click calibrate. This will bring up a menu where you enter the minimum and increment cure times you want to test, ex: 4000, 2000 gives a first box with 4000, then 6000, 8000, etc, through 22000. It will update these values when you click "Print test model".

One note for those with a shutter, I have the shutter open in my start and Pre-Slice gcode with "M280 P2 S140 ; open shutter" and close in the Lift and End gcode with "M280 P2 S90 ; close shutter", but the last layer used for this cure test is not a typical layer so you may need to export the gcode and manually add "M280 P2 S140 ; open shutter" before the rapid sets of <Slice> and <Delay> to make sure it's open for the most important part of the test...

Close the box and click print and this will start printing the grid. At the end of the print it will expose a solid layer on top of the grid (have a look at the last few slices in slice view). It will not lift between these - the intent is to expose one square for 4s, the next 4+2s, 4+2+2, 4+2+2+2, etc on to 22s to see which amount of curing creates a sufficient layer. Your print should look something like mine, with some layer so weak they may break handling, pulling off the bed, or possibly just because they weren't cured at all. You may want to run the calibration again with a tighter range of times to get a more accurate number. These are the numbers I used so I've been using 12s, which you can see is the lower range of what's necessary.

[Yogi2010]

i am new here & i need some help about how to use the shutter in DLP 3D printer? please help !! any help much appreciated. Thanks

[Ruthalas]

How do you know which grid space represents each cure time?

Clearly the bottom right cells in your image are the lowest exposure, but the best seems to be the top right.

Are the values arranged clockwise?

Edit: Creation Workshop provides a popup with a grid showing what values each cell is exposed with when you use this feature.