Another night, another set of test prints on my LittleRP2.
I finally feel like I am dialing in the settings for brightness, exposure and dimming. The prints are starting to come out great and consistent now.
I decided to take another approach at creating a profile. I've done the NanoDLP calibration plate, but that just helps get a ball park for a given print area. I really wanted to find a profile that worked well small and mid size. Also, I knew that my projector was putting out too much light and causing a decent amount of bleed. So instead of adjusting the brightness on the projector, I decided to set an off white in NanoDLP (220,220,220).
The first thing I wanted to do was establish times for super small and detailed prints. So I loaded up the Kudo3D calibration object, disabled pixel dimming all together, and bumped the curing time up a bit to compensate for the global dimming I did at the profile level. For these tests I ended up with 6 second layers / 8 second burn in. Overall I was quite happy with the Kudo3D print, even the Titan 1 logo was visible. I still had a slight about of light bleed on the back side, but far better than before.
With those times established for small detailed prints, I decided to print something with a bit more surface area, but this time I added pixel dimming. I landed on 20 dimming, 4 pixel walls and 10 layers skipped. To test this I printed a small modified version of the LittleRP Calibration object.
With another success, I decided to try a full print - Paul Braddock's Death Trooper helmet. And man did it come out great! There was only a small band across the model (you can see it on the eye lens), not sure what might have caused that...no biggie though.
75% FTD Deep Black / 25% FTD Clear.