Build Your Own SLA/SLS

Actually I like both the print quality and how you shoot them. What's your shooting gear? It captures details very well.

Thanks! I've just been using a Canon T3 DSLR and a standard lens. I've been setting the zoom to max and manually focusing the lens, seems to work pretty well.

How did you find mounting the x152? Would one of you be able to send me a picture of the projector mounted on the base from the side? I'm almost completed with building the printer and I would appreciate it greatly!

Thanks!

Hey RedBeard,

It was a bit of trial and error, but here is where I ended up. I did use two of the orange spacers on the back part of the projector to help center the projected image onto the build plate. I apologize for the crappy images, I just finished a print and the projector was hot so I didn't want to move it. Let me know if you have any other questions.


Thanks!
Corey

Thank you! I figured I would have to use more shims. All I have left to do is MOD the projector and print. Oh what is brightness setting are you using?

For the x152h, there are 2 positions one for 25micron, the other for 37micron. At the forward position I typically use a single melamine standoff under each of the 3 projector mounting holes, on the printer side I use the small square base as a spacer between the projector base and the printer.

In the rear 37micron position you would need to use 2 of the large circular spacers under the tslot and the square base.
You can see how you can stack the square base and the large circular spacers like is done in this picture: http://imgur.com/LS2Im1m

This is why the kits include tne square base as well as 8 of the large circular spacers. The eba kit includes another 12 circular spacers and an extra square base ... so you can imagine the x152h in the rear position + EBA you have quite a few spacers which is why I also includes lots of lengths of m5 buttonheads .. up to 65mm long.

For 25micron you will need to use (2) m4 nuts as spacers on the x152h more likely instead of (2) m3.

Another night, another set of test prints on my LittleRP2. I finally feel like I am dialing in the settings for brightness, exposure and dimming. The prints are starting to come out great and consistent now.

I decided to take another approach at creating a profile. I've done the NanoDLP calibration plate, but that just helps get a ball park for a given print area. I really wanted to find a profile that worked well small and mid size. Also, I knew that my projector was putting out too much light and causing a decent amount of bleed. So instead of adjusting the brightness on the projector, I decided to set an off white in NanoDLP (220,220,220).

The first thing I wanted to do was establish times for super small and detailed prints. So I loaded up the Kudo3D calibration object, disabled pixel dimming all together, and bumped the curing time up a bit to compensate for the global dimming I did at the profile level. For these tests I ended up with 6 second layers / 8 second burn in. Overall I was quite happy with the Kudo3D print, even the Titan 1 logo was visible. I still had a slight about of light bleed on the back side, but far better than before.

With those times established for small detailed prints, I decided to print something with a bit more surface area, but this time I added pixel dimming. I landed on 20 dimming, 4 pixel walls and 10 layers skipped. To test this I printed a small modified version of the LittleRP Calibration object.
With another success, I decided to try a full print - Paul Braddock's Death Trooper helmet. And man did it come out great! There was only a small band across the model (you can see it on the eye lens), not sure what might have caused that...no biggie though.

75% FTD Deep Black / 25% FTD Clear.

What is the easiest way to get the top cover off of the Acer x152h?!

Thanks!