Build Your Own SLA/SLS

Edited in bold my findings if someone comes across this post

I'm interested in getting a LittleRP 2 as I would like to create a jewelry business but there are some things i haven't found answers for yet, I'm a complete novice to the use of 3d printers but I've read up a lot on how they work.

- If i were to buy an Acer X152H as recommended​ (I need the 25 micron x/y) would i need to make modifications to it to work or to decrease the time it takes to do prints? If so are there instructions for this as I've only seen some for an older projector. This blog post suggests it does but isn't far from the instructions for the Acer x1240 instructions: https://callmevice.com/2016/02/03/the-l ... ted-guide/

-I live in the UK, where might I get resins like the B9 yellow or makerjuice waxcasts? As I would intend to go straight to casting and delivery for a litre/kilo is quite a lot. Found a supplier here: https://www.imakr.com/en/109-maker-juice Though only a bit cheaper than getting it from them directly

- I was thinking of using the extended build area upgrade to print multiple at once, will I lose the 25 micron detail if the projector needs to cover a larger area, due to the larger pixels?

- I'm aware the LittleRP isn't plug and play and will require calibration, but what would day to day use entail? How hard is it to get reliable high quality prints? If I calibrated it to work for a type of resin etc would it not require too much more fiddling for each print thereafter?

I aim to do high detail sculpts in zbrush so the higher resolution(?) i can get the better, 25 microns is better than the 30 I've seen available and at 1/4 the price. This was an example I made to test the capability of a 16 micron professional wax printer. The final pic isn't ideal unfortunately but the ring came out great.

I'm sure some detail would be lost going from 16 to 25 microns but I could work with that, it would be good to see how the littleRP handles my snake ring.

Sorry for the long post but I thought it best to get my questions all out at once.

I only use Zbrush with the LittleRP 1 and have had really great prints using WaxCast at even the 37 micron level. Cool ring by the way.

The only modification I did to the X152H I use for testing is to shim the optics, much like the x1240 guide, I will provide a X152H guide once the current kits ship. I don't remove the color wheel or remove the uv filter. The shimming does not change the cure time, it only make close focus available. Removing the uv filter will increase printing speed dramatically, but may damage the projector. I have several hundred hours on a unit without any issue, however there is some anecdotal concern.

Makerjuice waxcast is probably what I recommend mainly because it's price is cheaper than b9 resins, but it also cures quite a bit faster. The b9 emerald testing I did was with a HD37 with uv filter removed.

Yes the number of pixels don't change, so they get larger as the build area gets larger. Also printing smaller is generally easier than printing larger.

It's a DIY kit with a number of variables ... but I like to think that once dialed in it is consistent. How long it takes to dial in depends on the person .. for me it only takes a couple of prints, for others it's hard to say ... the process is pretty simple but the concepts are generally new to people. It will ultimately require more fiddling then a more expensive commercial machine ... no free lunch.

I would say the main issue with DIY resin printers like the LittleRP is the software workflow, generating supports is generally best done manually as there aren't any great open source slicers that have good automatic support generation.

25 microns is pretty small, I have to use a good magnifying glass just to set focus .. going lower might need a microscope

I will throw my 2 cents in about support generation as I have had alot of experience with it. I was using Meshmixer at first to generate supports, and it did the job ok, it would create way to many supports though and the supports didn't have a adjustable breaking point. What I am using now is the new Autodesk Netfabb Premium, it has a really great support module for structure with tons of variables and I really like the how the supports have a breaking point, so they snap off much easier than any other automatic generation supports and leave very little marks once broken off. Highly recommend this software. Lots of other features as well. I use my Little RP 1 almost every day, sometimes it might sit for a week without use. Depending on what work I am doing, as I am a actual bench jeweler.
The hardest part for me was understanding how the buildplate needs to look each time you print. Which once you understand its works pretty great.

Thank you very much for replying goopyplastic, I actually found an X152H guide on that same blog at the bottom on their recent posts, they later removed the UV filter and it caused it to overheat and melt so I wont be doing that.

When do you expect you'll be shipping the kits?

Thanks for taking the time to answer my other questions.

Meshmixer does a pretty good job at creating supports and its free. It does allow for some adjustment of support structure just not the precision that you get with Netfabb. The buildplate, you will understand once you put your machine together. Easy to figure out, and essential to getting good prints. It seems some struggle with it though. I would like to upgrade to LRP2 at some point.

Here are some cured Waxcast pieces I just printed. In a couple days I will cast them in Silver. The skull ring has its own sprue and risers built into it.