Makerjuice Waxcast calibration block test.

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hirenashra
Posts: 59
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2016 3:25 am
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Makerjuice Waxcast calibration block test.

Postby hirenashra » Fri Jan 06, 2017 8:32 pm

Finally after many tries I have somewhat of a decent outcome. The reason for so many failures was due to the flexvat not having enough tension.

The Acer P1500 has the typical dead spots going across the top of the build area. This shows in print failure.

I printed 4 calibration blocks across the build plate. Only one out of the four blocks gained a reasonable amount of stability. The others were a mess. It seems the early layers started to peel away from the build plate.

Some help on improvements would be fantastic. I need to start printing rings real soon.

I've left some pictures up for reference
Attachments
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goopyplastic
Posts: 236
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:16 pm
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Re: Makerjuice Waxcast calibration block test.

Postby goopyplastic » Sat Jan 07, 2017 2:21 am

broken prints can be not enough cure time. the separation of layers in-between base and normal layers would also suggest this. I would go a good 20% higher on cure time and repeat etc. waxcast does not adhere great to build platforms in general, I use a base layer in the 80+ second range, and even then it isn't amazing. Roughing up the build plate even more will help. The original square tubing build plates drilled with holes on the build plate side give the prints more to hold onto. in creation workshop you can add a base pretty easily, it is likely that any waxcast print will need a base larger than the part itself for proper adhesion. I believe they may be modifying the resin to give it a little extra stick.

broken prints can also be from the part sticking too well to both the build plate and vat surface, so the relatively weaker part gets broken, this generally only happens if the fep is damaged. waxcast is a pretty non sticky resin, especially when compared to say b9 emerald etc. so it's unlikely that waxcast alone would ever damage the fep but if the fep has seen some harsher resins in the past it's something to consider.

so I would look at the print you have as showing that only one had enough cure time, and even then it was still too low. there isn't much we can do about the p1500 / h6510bd etc. they were breakthrough dlp's for resin printing at the time however I think the cons outweight the benefits at this point. I will be switching to recommending other 1080p projectors, namely the x152h and hd37 which have the added benefit of being able to do 25micron x/y.

looser film will help with print quality and peeling efficiency, however with the htl vat loose film can sag particularly on the first layers. i will be switching to a clear acrylic plate under the teflon to counter this.


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