Build Your Own SLA/SLS

I got my LittleRP just before the summer started, and I am having a booger of a time getting a solid print out of it.

I've had a total of 8 or so tries so far and the only thing I've gotten are thin slivers of plastic. It's not sticking to the build plate. I got it to stick to the build plate once so far but was a barely formed mess, save for the first bottom layers (I'll post a photo later).

I've been reading the forum topics on here and wound up getting rather confused. I've tried increasing and decreasing the Z speeds, raising and lowering the exposure times. Some have said it only takes 2000-2500ms, the main site says around 3500ms, and some said for somewhere around 8000ms. I tired roughing up the build plate with super coarse sandpaper. So far, I've gotten nothing.

Someone else said on here that cleaning their mirror and projector lens helped out a lot, so I'll see if that does anything.

I'm using an unmodified Viewsonic PJD7820HD, the See-Me-CNC Fep vat, and MakerJuice SF Red resin.
And here are my current slicing profile settings.


Someone please help fast. I need to get printing ASAP.

if you are using a tensioned FEP flexvat increase your bottom layer exposure time to 30000ms (30 seconds) and decrease the number of bottom layers to 3. Make sure your FEP film is tightly tensioned and your build plate is adjusted parallel to the fep film. The zero position of your build plate can be very lightly touching the FEP film (better touching than a gap). The long base exposures will not harm the FEP film unless there is a thick layer being exposed (a large gap between the build plate and FEP).

there is an exposure testing utility that you can use on my flexvat website:

I have been a part of this community for a long time and I believe I have contributed. I have sold thousands of feet of FEP and at this point over 200 vat kits. The number of complaints I have had: 1, the one you see above. The number of returns of all kinds since I have been selling vats and FEP: 1 (they decided they did not need FEP for their purposes, I issued a full refund). I offered a full refund to the person who posted above upon return of the material. I did not want to send replacement material because the damage he sighted was very out of the ordinary for the type of packing I do and I felt it was best to issue a refund and move on. In a response to my email asking for the return of the material for a refund he informed me that if i didn't send him replacement material that he would, essentially, slander me online, I see he is a man of his word at least in this regard. The people here and in the 3d printing community know me, ask yourself, who do you believe.

I an going to issue this "gentleman" a refund, he can keep the FEP.

Now I am going back down stairs and finish installing the 350mm X 350mm heated bed on the "thing" which is what I was doing before I was so rudely interrupted.

BTW he has posted this same complaint in at least 7 threads on this board, photos and all.

HTL

Do these FEP sheets have a "side" to them? Is one side more non-stick than the other?

Hi Head-Zonk Studios,

the usual FEP films you can buy do not have a special side. You can use them as you want.

However, there are also films that have a adhesive side where you can bond it e.g. using glue.

Just check the datasheet or product specification at the site where you bought the FEP.

Greetings,
radi2k

Thank you for the reply.

It turns out my problem was I had the Z Lift way too fast and was over exposing it. Now I'm trying to undo light bleeding and get the exposure area even. I'm trying out masks right now and so far it's been hit and miss. Mostly miss.

Regular SubSF will have bleed problems at lower than 100 micron heights, the only way around that is to add additional blocker (which is what the subsf for littlerp does). Fep can also get damaged (roughened) so if it starts sticking excessively it will just get worse quickly so a new film might be in order.