LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Forum dedicated to discussion and technical support centered around the LittleRP affordable, open source 3D resin printer.
HTL
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby HTL » Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:04 am

Hiren

I think that if the resin is sticking to the FEP rather than the build plate the thickness of the cured resin is thinner than the distance between the build plate and the FEP film so the first layers are not attaching to the build plate. I would try the resin pigment dilution trick, also your build plate is slightly low but you can probably live with that for now. My money is on diluting the resins pigment concentration this will allow for a deeper cure thickness for a given layer exposure. You can do a quick test by printing with some partially or fully settled resin straight from the container.

hirenashra
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby hirenashra » Sat Jun 18, 2016 7:07 pm

I noticed one thing today. That I might have been pressing too hard on the VAT for the zero layer.

I levelled the build plate without too much pressure and the zero to first layer took.

I believe a bigger build plate will be the ideal solution to what I just went through.

HTL
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby HTL » Mon Jun 20, 2016 7:23 am

Hiren

I still think the pigment concentration of your resin is too high. If your part does not stick to the build plate well with a 30 second let alone an 80 second base exposures your resins pigment concentration probably has a lot to do with it. Even with a slightly low or misaligned build plate the part should stick to the plate with 3-30 second base exposures and it should stick firmly. I strongly suggest cutting the concentration of pigment in your resin using one of the method indicated in previous posts.

hirenashra
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby hirenashra » Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:50 pm


hirenashra
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby hirenashra » Sun Jun 26, 2016 5:43 am


HTL
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby HTL » Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:04 pm

Hiren

if you are using a 1080p high def projector (1080 X 1920) the length to width for x and y are not correct. For your CW machine settings (or any 3d printer software) you should always measure the width and calculate the height. If the actual measured width of your image area is 89.8 the height should be 50.51.

example:
1080(projector image height in pixels) / 1920(projector width in pixels) = 0.5625
89.8(measured width of image - X) * 0.5625 (projector height to width ratio) = 50.51(calculated height of image - Y)

for any image size if you measure the projected image width (measure the top edge) and multiply the width by 0.5625 you will get the height setting for a 1080p projector(for example if you have a projected image 100 mm wide the height will be 56.25)

It's easier to do the width measurement if you use a translucent paper or frosted plastic on the vat floor and use the CW software or my software to "blank" the projector image so that you can see the image without using welders glasses. A cheap digital caliper is also a good thing to have around.

If you are getting distortion with the close up lens the problem will be one of the following: the diameter of the close up lens is too small (the corners of the image are being clipped), the close up lens sits too far away from the front of the projector lens (image being clipped) or the close up lens is not parallel or centered to the projectors lens.

hirenashra
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby hirenashra » Wed Jun 29, 2016 4:43 pm


HTL
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby HTL » Sun Jul 03, 2016 11:42 am

Hiren

If you plug the numbers into CW as shown in my previous post your print sizes will be correct even if you decide to change your build resolution (projected image size), the LittleRP firmware should already be set correctly for the Z axis resolution. You may need to account for resin shrinkage, to do this print a cube or other item of known size, for example 20mm X 20mm. if the cube or item prints out to be 19mm X 19mm then divide 20 (20mm) by 19 (19mm) which will give you 1.052. To correct for shrinkage the simplest thing to do is to "scale" 3d model up by 105.2% (move the decimal point of 1.052 right two places) in your software and print the scaled up 3d model.

HTL
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby HTL » Sun Sep 04, 2016 12:13 pm

I have been a part of this community for a long time and I believe I have contributed. I have sold thousands of feet of FEP and at this point over 200 vat kits. The number of complaints I have had: 1, the one you see above. The number of returns of all kinds since I have been selling vats and FEP: 1 (they decided they did not need FEP for their purposes, I issued a full refund). I offered a full refund to the person who posted above upon return of the material. I did not want to send replacement material because the damage he sighted was very out of the ordinary for the type of packing I do and I felt it was best to issue a refund and move on. In a response to my email asking for the return of the material for a refund he informed me that if i didn't send him replacement material that he would, essentially, slander me online, I see he is a man of his word at least in this regard. The people here and in the 3d printing community know me, ask yourself, who do you believe.

I an going to issue this "gentleman" a refund, he can keep the FEP.

Now I am going back down stairs and finish installing the 350mm X 350mm heated bed on the "thing" which is what I was doing before I was so rudely interrupted.

BTW he has posted this same complaint in at least 7 threads on this board, photos and all.

HTL

goldi80
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Re: LittleRP proving to be a waste of time!

Postby goldi80 » Wed Dec 07, 2016 5:53 am

You are right im jeweler i work on the bench some time. now not because of 3d printer i own 10x 3d printer i have built 5x write my soft, and do not make nothing i only calibrate. buy more 3d printer parts, flash arduino til is dead. draw on my slow pc models, print every day for 6 years now.

My father even my grandfather had to go company the buy models for like 80$ for rubber. that vas then now the steall your model and make for everybody

It normal if do not buy commercial machine like envisiontec that you need to make it work by yourself.

You need to know all history of sla dlp lcd fdm to print something it can not do automatic.

i give you quick guide
first take vat put some resin (do not change resin use only one) small amount put in your light and count sounds like 21 22 23 24 25 this is 5 sek
repeat this for 1h and measure the layer then you are good to go now you know how is working VAT AND Light.

Second-best take your build plate put some resin on it put you light on it count 21 22 23 24 25 same but now need to stick the known material is
aluminium glass PLA ABS i use plexiglass on dlp on some resin regular glass you need to find best for your setup

need to clean with alcohol part that use whit resin lens and mirror every time . and coffee filter for resin every time.

after stick and un stick you will print but now you need to make movement for your setup go slow and listen vat sound if is sound like drum you have add more cure time and slow you can copy evisiontec micro 1. 0.5mm very slow ,2, 10mm fast over the resin (need to go over the resin)you can blow and see if is stick to vat on every layer.

put base 1.5mm and support 1.5mm first make chubby model

littlr rp is good simply setup no end switch no limit but it have problem whit mirror is best to put projector under no mirror but then you will destroy projector wen vat brake or take out vat one small resin dot on projector elektronic is dead .

Regards this how i do it.


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