Smallest Support Tip Diameter that can be used?
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Smallest Support Tip Diameter that can be used?
What is the smallest support tip diameter that can be used in Meshmixer for the Little RP. Right now I am using 0.37, the default is 0.30 for Meshmixer in the SLA dialogue box. The problem is I get little divots where I break the tip off at, which then becomes a surface defect. Would it be better to UV the model first then break/cut them off. Are there any tricks to this?
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Re: Smallest Support Tip Diameter that can be used?
I also have problems with divots, particularly if the supports are snapped off after UV. Below are some methods I use to reduce this problem:
- For fine parts I decrease the tip size from 0.34 to about 0.24mm diameter. I usually also increase exposure by about 25% and ensure the focus is accurate so these finer tips connect and support the part growth ok.
-Most parts I can orientate so the supports project on to a flat surface or base. Then I just snap them off and sand the surface flat with 800 grit paper.
- For some supports its useful to cut them off flush before the UV post cure. This can be slow work and either using a #11 scalpel blade or a fine pair of curved iris scissors under magnification.
- For fine parts I decrease the tip size from 0.34 to about 0.24mm diameter. I usually also increase exposure by about 25% and ensure the focus is accurate so these finer tips connect and support the part growth ok.
-Most parts I can orientate so the supports project on to a flat surface or base. Then I just snap them off and sand the surface flat with 800 grit paper.
- For some supports its useful to cut them off flush before the UV post cure. This can be slow work and either using a #11 scalpel blade or a fine pair of curved iris scissors under magnification.
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Re: Smallest Support Tip Diameter that can be used?
I get this sometimes with different materials. I don't recall it being a problem much with MS1 or MS2.
However, G+ Black and Red (Haven't tried anything else but blue... and let's say that blue is difficult to print with and to not have it turn into a nasty blob that ruins your print surfaces. The others aren't as high a resolution as the MS1/Red, but are still pretty good. I did mix it with red for a nice purple.) When you remove it with nippers it almost flakes off like what you'd see on a rock after flintknapping. Usually, I make the supports on the bottom or other places they won't be seen.
In the case that it does screw up, and leaves a divot some place that's visible (most of the things I'm doing in G+ have rounded or flat convex shapes.) I'll put a drop of resin on it, and use a handheld blue laser to cure it, then sand it off until smooth. If it's just extra support, a small file works great for removing it.
(That laser trick also works for broken parts. Or unbroken parts that you want to join together.)
However, G+ Black and Red (Haven't tried anything else but blue... and let's say that blue is difficult to print with and to not have it turn into a nasty blob that ruins your print surfaces. The others aren't as high a resolution as the MS1/Red, but are still pretty good. I did mix it with red for a nice purple.) When you remove it with nippers it almost flakes off like what you'd see on a rock after flintknapping. Usually, I make the supports on the bottom or other places they won't be seen.
In the case that it does screw up, and leaves a divot some place that's visible (most of the things I'm doing in G+ have rounded or flat convex shapes.) I'll put a drop of resin on it, and use a handheld blue laser to cure it, then sand it off until smooth. If it's just extra support, a small file works great for removing it.
(That laser trick also works for broken parts. Or unbroken parts that you want to join together.)