Print Fails with MakerJuice: Why?

[maurice]

Since I finished the MadeSolid Resin sample of the LittleRP Kit, I got some MakerJuice SubSF in red, and since then I fail prints. (I used the curing times suggested by Brad on the LittleRP page)

Are this fails caused by overcuring?
Or does anyone know another reason for the fails?

My idea so far is, that a small part of the prints sticks more to the PDMS than the build, and this spot on the PDMS gets bigger slice by slice. That would explain the shape of the holes in the prints. (And it's a very good way to fuck up the PDMS)
But if that is the reason in deed, the question why it happens still remains.

[Scatterplot]

It looks like you have some pretty large cross sections. You may need to hollow out your models more.

Also, try adding a raft to the bottom of your model to give it a larger surface area to adhere to the build plate. I'd also try increasing your cure times; try out the calibration pieces and see how they do. I've found that too low of a cure time means it breaks apart like yours is doing.

[dangre]

It could be too long of exposure too, especially if it is sticking to the vat. Hollowing will greatly help. I would suggest verifying with a calibration test.

[maurice]

I made calibration tests for the Maker Juice, and for me, 2000-2500 ms(50 microns) curing time are ideal (probably the suggested 3500mson the littlerp page are for the specific littlerp resin?)
So the fails were caused by overcuring, and I guess my idea about the one small spot that starts sticking to the PDMS more than to the build was right.

[goopyplastic]

Yes I would only print one of those objects at a time, and hollowing will help.