Well my littleRP arrived this morning, and i cant say how well this package is packed!
I spent the afternoon building it, and it went together incredibly well!
Ive been doing some calibration prints, first one of the ABC 123 block turned out flawless!
However, when doing the calibration pins (50x30mm) to get my build area scaled correctly, some of the edge pins are not printing right.
Little beast
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Re: Little beast
Ya the 9 post is a harder print and it does have to do with build plate leveling. One way to fine tune the build plate leveling is with the projector off.
Put resin into the vat, and lower the build plate all the way. Since the resin is somewhat opaque, looking underneath through the mirror we can see which side is high / low. You want the thin layer of resin to be a consistent opaqueness which corresponds to a similar layer thickness.
You can also cheat a little by just increasing the base layer time
Also the distance accross the pins should be 50mm and 30mm at the upper pin part not the base.
Nice work btw!
Put resin into the vat, and lower the build plate all the way. Since the resin is somewhat opaque, looking underneath through the mirror we can see which side is high / low. You want the thin layer of resin to be a consistent opaqueness which corresponds to a similar layer thickness.
You can also cheat a little by just increasing the base layer time
Also the distance accross the pins should be 50mm and 30mm at the upper pin part not the base.
Nice work btw!
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Re: Little beast
How do you clean your petri dishes between prints? just with Alcohol?
Regards,
Alan
Regards,
Alan
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Re: Little beast
"What I do that I really like is I use mason jars, I pour some resin into a mason jar, then use 10ml syringes to go from the mason jar to the vat. When I am done printing for the day I will pour the unused resin back into the mason jar (a lot easier than pouring it back into the bottle). If you prop the dish up on top of the mason jar and let is drain for awhile almost all of the resin will drain (especially on the PDMS surface as it is slick). I also have another mason jar I use for waste, I pour a small amount of IPA into the vat and swirl it around with my finger, getting the sides and the PDMS, then I pour the IPA / resin mix into the waste jar. Generally I repeat 1 or 2 more times until the dish is clean. You can put the waste jars out in the sun and let them evaporate, the sun will generally neutralize the resin so it can be disposed of (check your local ordinances). Straight resin can be hardened in the sun and disposed of also but can generate a bit of heat in the process so is best done in a container that won't melt. But as always check with your resin maker "
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Re: Little beast
Hi guys,
just got my printer,
where can i find the stl files for these calibration objects ?
thanks
just got my printer,
where can i find the stl files for these calibration objects ?
thanks
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Re: Little beast
So doing some printing, Ive been struggling to get the edges of prints to come out. Is this to do with exposure times per layer? Its a fine balance between getting the detail, and having the layer stick to the petridish and getting ripped off.
Here is how i have been getting on (I should of kept a record of each base/layer time DOH!!)
Here is how i have been getting on (I should of kept a record of each base/layer time DOH!!)
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Re: Little beast
Brad, what settings do you use for 25 microns? If i can get done to 10-15 microns, ill be very happy .
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Re: Little beast
Yeah im using makerjuice, seems really nice stuff. Have ordered 500ml more as i keep playing about printing stuff. Im down to 25 microns with the prints, just need to shore up some supports on my models.
Whats the best program for support creation?
Whats the best program for support creation?