Build Your Own SLA/SLS

I have a LOT of problems with glass plate tests, mostly appeared with larger Z pieces.I have two plates: one anodized aluminiun microperforated(only for one use!!) for piecest that I need to be totally bond at 100% efectiveness.
the other plate is made of Black anodized dura-aluminiun , that plate is for everyday use with my prints.The REAL BIG PROBLEM is if the piece is suddendly unstick from the plate, your VAT is automatically destroyed(sylgar layer is burned and the "cristal transparency look" says goodbye!!!)

octanees,
Is the anodized coating the best you have found?, what other coatings if any could we try, do you clean with alcohol?
what do you mean by microperforated ?, any chance of some pictures.
SLA machines have a build plate with an array of 6mm holes, this is mainly to let resin pass through, but may help with adhesion.

octanees,
Thanks for the information, fridge idea sounds great, the perforated plate looks
like what I had in mind for a good build plate, why only use once?, is it hard to clean?.
Steam cleaners are good at removing hardened resin I am told.

I need to order some sylguard soon, where do you guys get it??, also what glass do you use, I
read that borosilicate is best, but expensive, and hard to get.

I suppose we should create a section for all these good hints and tips, so others can find them.

About borosilicate, I dont know if works because the main important thing in VAT and plate never would be sticked.Sylgard avoid that because"The key factor will be it's ability to absorb oxygen and inhibit cure" I'm not sure if borosilicate reacts at the same way like Sylgard.that minimun inhibit layer works at lubricant and make effective the "unsticking"on VAT.Any people of forum have made experiments with borosilicate, please?

Sylgard is expensive, with 500g you can use over 3 times to rebuild the surface when is burned(yes, when you repeat the layers at the same position tends to burn that area ALWAYS)so I hope to find a new material that works better and be more durable than sylgard.
price of 500 g in ebay:

about cleaning plate with microholes...no idea...i prefer to use just only one time, and when I the piece is finally printed, plate go direcly to trash.

to avoid particles and imperfections in VAT,when I mix and use over the vat I protect the area covering with a plastic bag (see photo):
heatin in oven helps to cure sylgard too fast, but remember firstly to wait about 3 hours or more to gone the little bubbles(caused for mixing).when you verify that is ZERO bubbles in sylgard, its ready to "bake"in the oven at 50 degrees or less.im using cristal VAT,so that temperature is well ressisted for glasses(totally bad for plastic,acrilate VATs, you can melt, so avoid oven!!!)

Hi pacman,

i've been printing bottum up now for a few months, the more solid a model is the more car full you have to be with the time falling of the plate
if the model has enough holes it is not a problem and you can print the model without using any tilt.

the top-down approach with the saline how can you guarantee layer thickness?

some suggest like the with the peachy printer that the focus point is a little below the resin level so layer thickness is not affected.

roughing up the aluminium defiantly helps

for the VAT bottom we use FEP film with a clamping mechanisme, the mechnism allows the fep film to be pushed against the glass and streches itself.
the tray is easy removed when the fep film is damaged,
a new tray is inserted in seconds, and you can continue like nothing has happend. meanwhile you can replace the damaged fep film in your own time.
FEP film price is ok i guess, for $18 I can replace allot of trays

what i also haven't seen with fep film is that it is affected by uv in the sense that it will obscure the vat by a smoking effect.

As far as sticking to the build plate, I've been using glass and on occasion have had sections detach from the glass. I then proceeded to bead blast the glass to get a frosted surface. I think it sticks TOO well now.

After printing with the blasted glass surface, It was quite difficult to get the initial layers to remove from the glass. I had to use a scraper to remove the part. It takes a bit longer and leaves more cleanup of the build plate but your part will not come off during printing.

Either sandblasted glass or aluminum should work just fine.

Question for Octanees. How do you attach the micro-perforated plate to the build plate?

I'm using self-adhesive sandpaper. and works quite well.