Build Your Own SLA/SLS

and what about the SLASH :
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/64 ... ssional-3d

Hi guys,
I am new here and I suppose to make my first LCD based 3D SLA printer.
Could some one share to me the modified firmware which one include on/off back led light feature or teach me how to config that feature myself.

Thank you so much.

if you have not done it, I can explain you
Drago

Hi all,

Im a bit confused by all this.

Surely the ipad retina screen IS the light source?

If I was to give this project a crack (my experience is only in building FDM printers) I would need the retina display, the AbuseMark adapter and what else?

I hope I dont need an LED-array or whatever it is I saw mentioned at the start :S

On that - can I just the spare RAMPS/Mega kits I have laying around for the control of it? And whats the best option for firmware/controlling it? (ill keep hunting around the forum for more details!)

Cheers all
J

Hey,

you wrote "the lcd minus the uv filter".

Where I can find the uv filter? I checked my Ipad3/4 LCD and the top layer is a polarization filter.

Thanks,
M.

Just to add a bit of info, I have the 7.9in retina display and it does not have the large metal back. I am not sure about the UV filter, or if it can be removed.

I can cure resin with a solitary 410nm led, but when I put the 7.9in screen in the way of 10 x 700ma leds nothing cures after 30+ seconds. I assume this isn't a surprise to most here. I had them from an old project so thought I'd try before ordering blue Leds.

When he mentions "very slow" I assume we are talking minutes?

The general summary seems to be "don't bother with anything less than 450nm for ipad screens, and stick with daylight resins." Are there some instances where people have actually found success under 450nm with an ipad screen?

I came back to this forum to read more about what specific leds people are using and what cure times they are getting. 1w and 3w blue leds seem highly variable and generally of low quality. Cobs of any decent size probably won't be uniform. Some of the cheaper listings don't even mention a wavelength. I was curious about the COB led strips used in automotive (not the 5050 or 5730) which could be laid next to each other to form a grid. The best one seemed to be the 200x10mm COB in this link, but I have no idea how long to expect as the numbers listed are usually some idealized numbers that don't link to reality in any way. I do like that some of them are 12v, as it simplifies the power supply (atx psu mod).

My impression is that I'd be okay going with a bunch of newer cree, such as the blue xt-e or xt-e2 in an array. Those can be had for $2.50 or so in bulk, but I have no idea how many would be appropriate.

Hi,
I have read your posts and it is really interesting to use a display instead a projector. It is like morpheus 3d Printer. I am no pro and don't know if this is working. Could it be possible to remove the backlight of a display and use a Light which goes throu the display like in this link: http://www.instructables.com/id/A-very- ... light-Fix/
Replace LED's is very time intensive and needs good skills in soldering.

What do you think about this idea?? Will this work?