Retina iPad Display

This is the place to discuss DLP projectors, UV Lasers, Galvanometers, LCD screens and similar display devices. Also discussed are optics in general.
zachnfine
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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby zachnfine » Sat Jan 17, 2015 11:40 pm


AndersonTa
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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby AndersonTa » Sun Jan 18, 2015 12:18 am

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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby AndersonTa » Sun Jan 18, 2015 12:20 am

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AndersonTa
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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby AndersonTa » Sun Jan 18, 2015 12:25 am

So I haven't done much different than what I've described here in this thread, but I'm getting patterning and still testing.

Very close to full 3D print, but having some adhesion issues. I'm currently trying to work on implementing a diffuser in the mix to ensure no hotspots.

Some proofs to encourage you all to keep on working on this. I can see the potential!

2015-01-17 18.26.16.jpg
It's 3Dish? :)
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Phife
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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby Phife » Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:38 am

Youre getting hot spots? hmm.. i dont have that issue, I find my LCD does a great job at diffusing and evening out any hotspots.

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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby AndersonTa » Sun Jan 18, 2015 1:04 pm

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Phife
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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby Phife » Sun Jan 18, 2015 4:03 pm

I recently begun the design of a new array as well. Ive got some new optics coming in that might be nice. Im also switching to the XPE Led's. Oh and I have some 60degree viewing angle LED's coming as well. Maybe they are good enough with their primary optics that they wont require secondary optics but still provide the benefit of secondary optics by directing otherwise wasted light forward. I plan on making the new array include on board current regulation, on board temperature sensors, proper power connections and edge connectors to allow tiling of the array to make larger ones.

And finally, Ive found some true collimating lenses for the XPE LED's they should technically give the most amount of usable light from the LED/LCD combo, as the LCD likes its light to be as collimated as possible, should also help with the clarity of the image especially as you get farther from the surface of the LCD.

I wish I had some nicer measuring equipment, I only have a cheap Lumen meter, and a webcam photospectrometer.

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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby g4uts » Mon Jan 19, 2015 12:16 am


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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby AndersonTa » Mon Jan 19, 2015 3:10 am

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Re: Retina iPad Display

Postby orangezero » Fri Jan 23, 2015 12:03 am

Has anyone been able to get a good idea of the cutoff wavelength of the retina screen after it is taken apart? Is it exactly 400nm, so that 405nm or 410nm wavelength LEDs would work well? I've seen how some of the absorption curves for the resin do cure up to 420-425nm, but seem to require much more energy (luminous flux?) to do so compared to the 405 or 410 range. But if the retina LCD panel blocks more of the 405nm than the 420nm part of the spectrum, this may be a wash.

I read a forum on aquarium builds where they were comparing the semiled 405nm to the ledgroupbuy 405nm (or 410nm). It seems getting a good quality, long lasting 405nm LED at a decent price is challenging. There seems to be a few stores that do reef/aquariums that have custom ordered large numbers, and sell individual ones. So what are people using for LEDs with success? It seems the ledgroupbuy 410nm LED can run with a 700ma constant current source.

I have read good things about the meanwell LDD-700H. http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd ... ed-driver/. Hook that to a 48v 7.3a generic power supply, and use PWM via the arduino mega 2560 (w ramps 1.4). My electrical knowledge is rusting, but it is the case that a 48v power supply is more efficient than a 12v or 24v power supply. Are there other benefits besides being able to string more LEDs together in one series?

Or could one use something like this: http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/inventronics ... r-700ma-1/ I'm not sure exactly how you would automate this to an arduino via PWM.

The large 20-100w panels would seem to be impossible to collimate the light, and would affect the resolution in the x/y. But by how much? Would it cause failed prints, or would the prints just turn out less sharp in the finer details? I know the ibox nano uses small 5mm leds with no lenses onto a monochrome screen, and some of those prints look rather good (compared to a filament reprap...).

Here were a few other ideas I had for a 400-420nm light source, so please comment why they wouldn't work:

1. actnic CFL 420nm bulbs/tubes - not sure how to compare the light output to 405nm LEDs and they would probably not last long with constant on/off cycles? (perhaps a shutter mechanism in the gap between light and lcd could alleviate this problem) These seem to be almost exclusively used for aquariums. There were some 9w ones made by coralife that use a g23 socket and are about $5-8 each and are about 7in long, but they also have 4ft long ones... There are $20 UV nail curing boxes that have four sockets which could be modified to line them up. This would at least be not too expensive, although even if it worked I'm not sure it would be cost effective compared to longer lasting LEDs. I just have no way of comparing the amount of light output at 400-420nm vs the LEDs, can't seem to find any of the technical info on them.

2. After seeing the 5mm leds of the ibox nano, I wondered if it would work to have smd5050 or smd5630 LEDs mounted to a circuit board spaced very closely together on a heatsink. They are cheap by the 100x and they are small enough to allow a more even light source. But again, being non-collimated would limit resolution and reduce actual amount of light going through the LCD because of scattering. I'm just not sure how much. 7020 LEDs are even more powerful, but it seems they don't come in the correct wavelength.

3. Finally, I wondered about this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-60W-High-Po ... 2ed3d15bd7

(all the links are purely for reference, not as an endorsement) Sorry to be so long winded, but some of these conversations are rather old.


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