Looks great, color lcds seem like a real possibility now. I've got an lcd and a simple array built for testing and am about to buy some resin.
Since you've had some success with what you're using can I ask which resin it is?
LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
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Barill
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
this is a old makerjuice.
But, As you know, I think the most important is the good combination of UV led + LCD (light that can pass trough) + resin + exposure time
About your prototype, what is the LCD dot pixel size ?
But, As you know, I think the most important is the good combination of UV led + LCD (light that can pass trough) + resin + exposure time
About your prototype, what is the LCD dot pixel size ?
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dpizzle
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
Cool thanks, The LCD is pretty high resolution, 96 microns, hoping it will work out well.
I'll let you know how my tests go.
I'll let you know how my tests go.
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Barill
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
96 microns ? Yes, HD !
And the diagonale size ?
And the diagonale size ?
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dpizzle
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
The diagonal size is 9.7". I'm hoping it's small enough that I won't have to do crazy vat tilting stuff, but that's pretty far away if I ever get to that point.
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Barill
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
it sounds great !
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Glacian22
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
I've been tinkering with using that same LCD, and had some very good results. I should have some exciting things to show everyone in a month or so. 
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Barill
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
To read all these posts, I think we will see great things in a short time...
LCD based 3D printer is the future of 3D printing, Sure!
LCD based 3D printer is the future of 3D printing, Sure!
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Phife
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Re: New Builder - LCD Based 3D Printer - Introduction
Ok, got the 10" 1920x1200 LCD in yesterday. Still waiting for the Ipad3 2048x1536 9.6" to come.
After tearing apart the LCD to remove the back light ive found a reflective film over the rear polarizer, possibly some sort of reflective polarizer. I cant see that helping much so Im gonna try to remove it tonight. I will also be removing the antiglare layers.
I did do a rough test with one of my LED arrays and lenses, I cured a 0.05mm layer in 3 seconds. Not bad, not as fast as my monochrome LCD but still, makes me think that color LCD is possible again as long as you have the LED power to overcome the color filter issues.
On that note, I looked at the LCD and print very closely under a microscope. I can see that when the LCD is displaying a white image, only the blue pixel is illuminated, the other two are black. This gives the print a gridded or screen door look. While the print was still solid, I could see squares under magnification. Not easy to see with the human eye though. I think the pixels are small enough, I hope the ipad3 lcd would be even better with its smaller pixels. This may be a good thing though, could help with part release as the surface is not totally even.
Im not ready to give up on monochrome LCD as I think that is still a good option, But I will begin building a smaller 10" LCD printer along side the 20". Im going to try to keep the 10" bottom up, but I think i'll need to go top down for the 20"
One day if this all works out I will try a 60" LCD.. lol
I'll post more results as I find them.
After tearing apart the LCD to remove the back light ive found a reflective film over the rear polarizer, possibly some sort of reflective polarizer. I cant see that helping much so Im gonna try to remove it tonight. I will also be removing the antiglare layers.
I did do a rough test with one of my LED arrays and lenses, I cured a 0.05mm layer in 3 seconds. Not bad, not as fast as my monochrome LCD but still, makes me think that color LCD is possible again as long as you have the LED power to overcome the color filter issues.
On that note, I looked at the LCD and print very closely under a microscope. I can see that when the LCD is displaying a white image, only the blue pixel is illuminated, the other two are black. This gives the print a gridded or screen door look. While the print was still solid, I could see squares under magnification. Not easy to see with the human eye though. I think the pixels are small enough, I hope the ipad3 lcd would be even better with its smaller pixels. This may be a good thing though, could help with part release as the surface is not totally even.
Im not ready to give up on monochrome LCD as I think that is still a good option, But I will begin building a smaller 10" LCD printer along side the 20". Im going to try to keep the 10" bottom up, but I think i'll need to go top down for the 20"
One day if this all works out I will try a 60" LCD.. lol
I'll post more results as I find them.