Build Your Own SLA/SLS

I tried auto-support generation in CW, but the support bases merge with the part, and one is actually inside the part. Can someone please remind me how to edit supports in CW? I know there is a way to select a support, delete it, move the top, and move the bottom, but I cannot figure it out for the ...

Thanks for the advice. When I push the build plate all the way down, I can see it clearly through the vat film, from below. I increased the exposure for the 1st 3 layers to 45 seconds. I still find a half-height part stuck to the vat at the end of the print. It seems that the part stays stuck to the...

I switched from Vorex and petri dishes to FTD black and a vat. The FTD is not sticking to the build plate as aggressively as the Vorex did, which is a mixed blessing. Easy to get parts off the build plate, but ... Recently, most of the parts end up stuck to the bottom of the vat. They are mostly wel...

I just started using FTD's black resin. I like the prints, but some of the smaller prints are pulling small chunks out of the PDMS, ruining the petri dish very quickly. Has anyone else seen this before? Any thoughts about how to avoid this?

Thanks!

Jon

I just started using the FTD Black resin to replace the Vorex I was using. The exposure times appear to be comparable, and I've made perhaps a dozen parts that have turned out nicely. I just started making some small parts (1/2" x 1/2") and suddenly they are tearing little divots out of th...

Some of the parts that I print require a bit of flexibility (a cantilevered spring). I wonder if the G+ would be the best fit for that particular application.

I ordered Black and White from FunToDo

Thanks!

Thanks! Easy to print sounds good (who would say no to that?!?) I have never had a problem with Vorex's durability. I found FunToDo on the web, but they seem to be only in the UK: the one US distributor that they mention does not seem to mention FunToDo. Puzzling. I found the B9 site easily enough. ...

Is there a FAQ somewhere that outlines a procedure for figuring out the correct exposure time for a new resin?

I just discovered that MakeSolid is gone, so I'm looking for resins to replace Vorex. Any recommendations?

Has anyone used FormLabs resins on the LittleRP? I used Vorex for quite a while, but that appears to no longer be an option. I would appreciate it if anyone could recommend a starting place for exposure settings.