Build Your Own SLA/SLS

mm_per_steps = 1 / ((motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / thread_pitch)
1 / ((200 * 16) / 10) = 0.003125 mm or 3.125 microns

Yea, same conclusion there... If you can get a 0.10mm or 0.05mm or 0.02mm(0.0008") layer of resin to replenish and settle consistently between the build plate and the 'salt water' then you got a solution. I just don't see how you would do it. If you are going to use a film why not use FEP film ...

Discussed shortly here:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2214

PomperoyB, Actually, I could not get any better results with the VGA other than the one shown in the picture. It was setup for VGA originally (which is what I had been using for months) but decided to try HDMI on another laptop using the same settings (SubG+, 100umXYZ, 14 sec exposure, FEP flex vat)...

Here is a comparison I did comparing VGA vs. HDMI using the exact same settings. The HDMI is much 'clearer'.

Francesco,
Just like everyone else said: very taut tension and holes in build plate. One thing I would add is a longer pause after the build plate comes down and before exposure to allow the resin hydraulic pressure to equate. Very nice vat, what is your build area?

Graber, No tension - no consistency - poor results. FEP will deform a lot under just a bit of temperature increase if not tensioned properly. Just the weight of the resin on untensioned FEP will make it bow. I was pulling my hair out once when my previously perfectly working machine would not adhere...

Bravo,
I like your take on the flex vat idea. I also would like to thank the assistance of Henry for his knowledge and sharing. I will publish my FEP comparison soon. May I ask what projector and exposure times you are using?

HP, amazing results, again! Remind me, what projector and resin are you using?

I've had one in a box for over a year for a FDM printer I never built. Having too much fun with my DLP. I dont see how you would actually use it for a DLP...