Build Your Own SLA/SLS

Great, thanks for the info!

One thing I noticed, with the larger aluminum plate in contact with the PMDS and a thin film of resin between them, it takes a lot of force simply to separate these parts. Is this normal? Does that happen with the flex vat? I attempted to print a chess rook with a 25 mm base. The first 1.5mm went do...

Now that I have my stock DropLit working I'm turning my attention to improvements and updates. First up, the stock machine has a 1" diameter build platform: http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v132/p968990416-3.jpg That kind of limits what one can print! It also is very difficult to adjust for ...

The 35mm diameter one came out very nice I think. Even the little supports are well defined. It looks great under a magnifier.

The red G+ is easier to print than the blue. This part used the same slice parameters and came out pretty nice looking. It was a little soft, is that normal until it is post treated with UV?

Great, that was it, thanks!

Thanks! Yes, I was considering trying red or yellow as I hear they are easier to print. Then I'll have some data to compare.

cheers,
Michael

Getting ever closer... I turned down brightness from 50% to 30% and increased the part diameter to ~30mm. I'm guessing based on what little I know that this is still over exposed. FullSizeRender.jpg I've turned down the brightness to 25% and trying another run. But, I am interested in why my project...

My projector was at 50% brightness. It is an Acer P1273 with the UV filter and color wheel removed. 3000 lumens, 17000:1 contrast and 1024x768 resolution. I turned the brightness down to 30% and I'll reprint with the same exposure to test. It is very difficult to change projector parameters looking ...

I usually have a gallon of IPA (and several 6 packs too) around but ran out last week. Picking some up today.

I'll have today into my projector manual to see how to decrease brightness. I also have the MJ G+ in all of the available colors. Is another color a better place to being?