]]>
]]>
]]>
BUT!! kkk my motor just make noise and don't move nice, if i use comand G0 X0 Y0 Z5 they spining for both sides, 1to up 1 to down, 1to up 1 to down,
i configure my Pololu A4988 Stepper Driver with .40V and Sixteenth step on GBRL
my step motor
i using M5 leadscrew.
cheers!
Angelini
Statistics: Posted by vonhellsing — Sat Feb 14, 2015 7:06 pm
]]>
The first thing I would suggest is not using a limit switch at all, for two reasons:
1) The limit switch behavior in Grbl is a little bit weird, and will some times lock up all motion when it shouldn't.
2) It's extremely easy to manually home the DropLit. Push the build plate all the way down until it is touching the vat, and that's it! As long as you've removed "G28" from your starting Gcode, this should work perfectly.
If you are determined to use a switch, I can at least point you in the right direction. You're first configuration is definitely correct. The second one may work, but it's a bit unorthodox. You also might try switching to NO and ground -- it could be that your firmware settings just has that logic reversed.
Good luck, and let us know if you solve the problem!
Statistics: Posted by PomeroyB — Sat Feb 14, 2015 5:04 pm
]]>
Statistics: Posted by vonhellsing — Sat Feb 14, 2015 10:56 am
]]>
The greatest difficulty was configuring CW to work with my configuration, turns out some of my settings were wrong and now it is working like a charm on preliminary tests at least.
Statistics: Posted by seasicksinbad — Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:13 pm
]]>
It sounds like the firmware might be a bit more of a job to set up than some of the popular RepRap firmware though.
Statistics: Posted by sitzme — Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:40 pm
]]>
normally after a move the motor power is removed, this is ok for leadscrews but
my worm and wheel vat was loosing position, so I set $7=255, which leaves motors
powered on, they only get slightly warm so no problem, the current adjuster can be
lowered if things get to hot.
still need to configure endstops for homing, and I think I now understand the invert mask,
so will invert the z motor direction.
Statistics: Posted by johnrpm — Mon Dec 23, 2013 6:16 am
]]>
]]>
$1 is Y, $2 is Z, and so on, no need to resend with arduino ide.
the blue ice stepper drivers do not get warm, but I have not set the amps above half way, I had intended having a small fan, but it looks like it is not needed.
I have a PC power supply with the green wire tied to ground to enable it, will put a switch on eventually, when the panel is added along with some LED's, nice to have some LED's here and there to make things interesting.
The tilt and slide is working well, limit switches have been added but not wired yet, next is a base plate for the whole thing, with a sub plate for the projector to be able to slide it forward and backwards to align and focus the single element lens.
Statistics: Posted by johnrpm — Fri Dec 13, 2013 5:14 pm
]]>
Statistics: Posted by johnrpm — Thu Dec 05, 2013 4:26 pm
]]>
]]>
As the PC must be connected to send images to the projector, no point having sd card support, or temperature stuff with ramps type boards,
Links to grbl stuff
The firmware
https://github.com/grbl/grbl
A controller to control your axis, good for setting thigs up ready for Creationworkshop
http://zapmaker.org/projects/grbl-controller-3-0/
Blue ice stepper drives, but stepstick, pololu also good
http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2013/08/ ... sting.html
A library to flash grbl to arduino
http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/grbl-arduino-library/
A shield for the arduino to make things tidy, but not absolutly needed
http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/tag/grbl/
These are my choices, and may not be the best options, but got to start somewhere, I will post on progress and any problems.
Statistics: Posted by johnrpm — Sun Dec 01, 2013 5:51 pm
]]>