It can be avoided by adding more pigment to the resin, and by using colors that tend to completely absorb UV light. Red/orange/yellow are some of the best colors to print with, wheres purple/blue would be some of the worst. Since your resin is orange, I would guess that the problem comes from the fact that it's slightly transparent... Adding some pigment to make the resin opaque may help. I use MakerJuice Red G+, which is pre-pigmented, and doesn't seem to bleed any noticeable amount.
Projection time is how long the image is projected each layer. For me, the first three layers are projected for 10 seconds, and each subsequent layer is projected for 6 seconds.
Dwell time is the time when it dips between each layer change. The bed moves down 5mm to completely cover the print, then back up 4.9mm to be .1mm lower than the previous layer. However, when it comes back up, the resin bulges over it. To avoid that, you dwell for some amount of time (Mine is at 7600 milliseconds). IN CWS, this is known as the "Lift and Sequence Time".
Resin expires after about 6 months, so you're probably fine. I had resin that I bought over a year before I ever used it... it didn't work out!
Statistics: Posted by PomeroyB — Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:46 am
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You were right! I took my projector out and reattached it to the frame and now my grid lines are lining up much nicer!
However it shut down due to overheating before I could make a print, have you ever had that issue before? I hope it's nothing that will become a problem in the future.
I'm going to try either tonight or tmrw night to make another Marvin print to compare the round nature of the print in comparison to the squished one from before.
I've gotten an IMGR account so I'll attach both my good and bad prints here in case you have any comments to make or suggestions to offer.
Good prints:
Bad prints:
To answer your questions:
When you say "light bleeding" What do you mean and how can I avoid it?
What's your projection time and dwell time? Not sure what they are to be honest, Projection time, is it how long the printing lasts for? Dwell time how long I leave it after its been printed?
What resin are you using? FUNTODO Industrial Blend
Did you add any pigment? No
How close is it to its expiration date? Just received, assuming a while before it expires, will double check when I get home
Thanks!
Statistics: Posted by Snakeyez116 — Sun Dec 07, 2014 10:13 pm
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I can tell you right now that putting RAMPs on your printer won't improve your prints at all... It looks like all of your problems are originating from either the projector or the resin (And all RAMPs does is make it easier to print at lower layer heights).
Your third picture is the most telling... That Marvin keychain is way squished! Double check Specifically the first three photos relating to the projector resolution. Also double check your 10mm grid. Every time I adjust my projector or move my printer, I double check the 10mm grid.
The roughness in your layers appear to be from light bleeding... What's your projection time and dwell time? What resin are you using? Did you add any pigment? How close is it to its expiration date? All of these are factors.
I'm afraid that my next installment of the user guide won't actually help you that much... It just goes over how to slice a model and print it (Which you've obviously already done).
Statistics: Posted by PomeroyB — Thu Dec 04, 2014 12:08 am
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Very happy to hear that! Can't wait, I'm just sitting here like an idiot with all the spare parts but no clue where to start haha, faffer gave me some info on the RAMPS installation, but not really sure what its for, whether I need to make changes to the firmware, flash it with the G-code circulating on the Uncia forum, or if that's completely immaterial to the entire thing. So a guide would be amazing regarding the hardware changes.
Another thing is how do I insert images into these posts? I attached 3 but that's the limit, if you look at my previous post I've updated it. Is there a way of inserting more than 3 images at a time?
Cheers!
Statistics: Posted by Snakeyez116 — Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:55 pm
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Anyways, you motivated me enough to get off my butt and make a new "Getting Started" installment -- Uncia's first print! After that one I'll probably do one on basic calibration, then the modifications. We'll see.
Statistics: Posted by PomeroyB — Thu Nov 27, 2014 5:31 am
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I'll be waiting with bated breath for that user guide haha.
These are some pics of my crappy prints, just to give you an idea of the trouble I'm dealing with:
Statistics: Posted by Snakeyez116 — Thu Nov 27, 2014 2:57 am
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The only manuals currently out there are Rafael's posts on the Google Group, as far as I know.
I would focus on getting your projector set up as perfect as possible -- if your prints are elongated, it means that your projector is not perpendicular to the build plate. Errors from that will just be more and more noticeable as you do lower layer heights! The only advice I can give is to use the calibration grid like a crazy person. Check it over and over until it's as perfect as you can get it!
Good luck!
Statistics: Posted by PomeroyB — Wed Nov 26, 2014 8:27 pm
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Thanks so much, however I have a second request, as selfish as it sounds after all you've done to enlighten us noobs
I've seen faffer and rafaels hardware improvements including its results, ie, RAMPS, planetary gear, etc and I've bought everything, I just don't know where to go abouts beginning the upgrade, whether Steve Hernandez's CWS should have any impact on it, or if I should upload the gcode hack by pressing the reset button, all a bit confusing.
Is there any clear cut hardware upgrade manual, to your knowledge, whereby I could go from zero to hero regarding having a proper 25 micron printing capability like the two guys I mentioned earlier do, have you seen their prints? They're mental!
Furthermore I get elongated prints, barely noticeable until I print a sphere or square, they come out oblong or asymmetrical. I've changed my aspect ratio and adjusted the positioning of my projector, and I have some good prints but it's just the anaemic look of the print in comparison to the 3d model that bothers me (not as full) any ideas?
Cheers and best regards!
Statistics: Posted by Snakeyez116 — Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:21 pm
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If anyone would like to add a topic, please post it in the normal Unica forum, PM me, and I will move it to the subforum. Please keep in mind that the topics should be very step-by-step -- pictures/screenshots are encouraged! The better the Getting Started subforum is, the less problems new users will have.
Statistics: Posted by PomeroyB — Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:33 am
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