FTD Deep Black is made to use for high resolutions with no bleed. According to the manufacturer, .030 is the maximum slice thickness. They say you could add more pigment if bleeding persists, so I may do that. They also say that it's made to work with DIY DLP printers like the LRP, and it's supposed to cure at 500ms with an unmodified projector.
So I think you're right, the wheel-less projector is too intense for the FTD resins, and the time is just too short to control.
I moved the color wheel to speed things up with MakerJuice SF Red for LRP. It was taking somewhere around 9 seconds a layer at .025 slice thickness. I had to plan half my day around one single print, which sucks when you have no idea if it'll come out right. Although now that I think about it, I may have really been fighting the uneven lighting the whole time. Increasing the exposure time overcame the uneven light but created other problems in the process.
Fortunately, I made things so I could put the wheel back.
I haven't been trying to build to the very edge of the build area. I figured you couldn't really do that, especially since the build plate isn't that big. Seeing what that tutorial said about closer mounted projectors having focus issues and your larger LRP2 model got me thinking. I could rearrange things so that the projector is mounted behind the machine, giving a little more distance for better focus, and maybe help with the curing issues. Not to mention getting the projector out from under dripping resin. But, again, that's another experiment for later.
I'm not sure why being able to make larger prints would make those three projectors undesirable, especially considering it seems like they're the only true HD projectors that don't cost thousands. When you're working with something at any size the higher resolution the better. I know you're compressing an image that's meant to be clear at 30-60+ inches to about as big as a credit card, but still.
Alright then... I'm going to put the color wheel back to help with the bleed and exposure (and maybe with the sticking and uneven distribution), then I'll rework the mask(s) to balance out the lighting. I also await the new integrated Flex Vat, thank you for that.
That leaves the NanoDLP host program. Your said that would be an option for the new printer. Would I need the Raspberry Pi board to work with that?Statistics: Posted by Head-Zonk Studios — Sun Jan 15, 2017 3:17 pm
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