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The calibration dots are a harder print because the acer 1080p projectors are a little uneven, so a longer cure is the way to get it to come out.
Don't worry about the holes and lines on the calibration rectangle those are mainly for resin testing, worry about having the cylinders come out intact, so you will want a little more cure time yet to achieve this.
2. When the prints are finished they still are a little bit sticky - I guess they are not completely cured? I bought a UV nail hardener from ebay - hope this helps..? Are there any other methods of post print cleaning / preparation?
An ultrasonic jewelry cleaner with ipa in it is a great way to clean prints, you can also try putting prints in a jar of ipa or water and putting it in the sun. The sticky layer can be from oxygen cure inhibition so putting it in the liquid will let the surface cure.
3. How do I clean the petri dishes used as resin tank?
Poor out the extra resin, you can let them drip for awhile to get most out. Then you want to put a little ipa in, swirl it around with your gloved finger and pour out, repeat until the petri is clean, let air dry.
4. How long can I let the resin sit in the petri dish? Would it be better to have it in a close bottle? Are any plastics ok - PP? PE?
PP / PET are generally fine to use. Leaving resin in the dish will vary based on resin but generally a few days is fine, just stir with a gloved finger well before using.
5. How long can i use a petri dish before it must be recoated?
Until the pdms starts developing milky spots beyond a light ghosting is my general recommendation. The amount of time to achieve this will vary quite a bit, in general about 10-12 small prints in the same location. You can move the item you are printing around to use more of the 'fresh' pdms.
6. Are there any sources for the MakerJuice resin in Germany / Europe? What kind of other resins that are available in Germany are you using with good results?
Check out ps_bonds thread with funtodo, there are makerjuice and madesolid resellers in europe though I would inquire with them about special ordering the LittleRP blend.
Statistics: Posted by goopyplastic — Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:52 pm
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I got a LittleRP from the Kickstarter and recently finished my first prints. Now I have a lot of questions
First I had some trouble to find a good curing time (I user MakerJuice SubSF for LittleRP) - I had to use longer times than the ones suggested 5000 instead of 3500).
The first print was a calibration pattern and only one half of the dots got well.
As I used larger curing times the prints went better but still had some distortions in one corner.
I managed to print a really good looking alien and a nearly good calibration brick - it still has some hole in one corner.
1. Any comments on the prints? Should I use even more time? How do I know if the time is too long?
2. When the prints are finished they still are a little bit sticky - I guess they are not completely cured? I bought a UV nail hardener from ebay - hope this helps..? Are there any other methods of post print cleaning / preparation?
3. How do I clean the petri dishes used as resin tank?
4. How long can I let the resin sit in the petri dish? Would it be better to have it in a close bottle? Are any plastics ok - PP? PE?
5. How long can i use a petri dish before it must be recoated?
6. Are there any sources for the MakerJuice resin in Germany / Europe? What kind of other resins that are available in Germany are you using with good results?
So thats a lot of questions - sorry for that! There ist so much to learn about sla printing...
Any comments and tipps are highly appreciated!
Thanks, Kai
Statistics: Posted by lab — Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:45 pm
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