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Build Your Own SLA/SLS A forum dedicated to helping you build your own SLA/SLS-based 3d printer 2014-08-25T12:15:33-04:00 http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/feed.php?f=13&t=1343 2014-08-25T12:15:33-04:00 2014-08-25T12:15:33-04:00 http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1343&p=4731#p4731 <![CDATA[Re: FTD resin exposure times findings/help :)]]>
Adding pigment solved it all. The downside of lots of pigment is that if you have a simple tilt VAT and expose a surface a lot of times, the pigment concentration at that point starts to go down during the build and it gets overexposed. I can't print solid/thick objects for more than 30mm, the vat simply can't do it. You have to play with hollowing out the model in that case.

Is it possible that lower wavelength light penetrates the resin deeper? Since borosilicate (what i have) is transparent to all UV there might be problems with that. Acrylic starts transmitting light at around 380 or 390nm from what i know, so maybe the lower energy light can't penetrate that far.

All the commercial/hobby machines seem to use ccrylic, and i have seen fairly transparent models with really good detail.

Statistics: Posted by adambx — Mon Aug 25, 2014 12:15 pm


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2014-08-24T13:19:47-04:00 2014-08-24T13:19:47-04:00 http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1343&p=4721#p4721 <![CDATA[Re: FTD resin exposure times findings/help :)]]>
50mic
0,5sec
05 sec.jpg


and 0,3sec
03 sec.jpg


I think, there are not enough pigments.

Statistics: Posted by sam — Sun Aug 24, 2014 1:19 pm


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2014-08-21T10:35:53-04:00 2014-08-21T10:35:53-04:00 http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1343&p=4677#p4677 <![CDATA[Re: FTD resin exposure times findings/help :)]]> Please tell me the optimal exposure time for DLP 3D printer.
I test FuntoDo SB. Lamp 3000 lumens

Statistics: Posted by 3dprinter.org.ua — Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:35 am


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2014-04-04T13:24:41-04:00 2014-04-04T13:24:41-04:00 http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1343&p=3277#p3277 <![CDATA[FTD resin exposure times findings/help :)]]> Link to my latest prints.

I printed both the shelled to 1mm Zombie Killer and solid model Devil at the same time to see the outcome for each since I have had no luck getting a perfect print with the shelled models I have. My take on it (being brand new to resin printing)
Shelled prints take a longer cure time when all things are equal to a solid print, and vise versa. The shelled model has holes in the very thin areas which would tell me the exposure time needs to go up, correct?
Then the solid model right about 3/4 of the way through the head layers stuck to the bottom of the VAT so it has a part of the head that is concave. This tells me it has too long of a exposure time since it is burning onto the VAT floor.

Can anyone confirm that is what might be happening or am I thinking about this wrong?

Clinton

Statistics: Posted by Finhead — Fri Apr 04, 2014 1:24 pm


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